APPENDIX A LUI 



prevented me from knowing certainly, though the words carabine and 

 caribou suggested hunting. 



My first visit to Northern Gaspé was in 1878, my next forty years 

 later, and no very striking changes had come in the interval. Perhaps 

 the most impressive changes were of a mechanical kind. One hears 

 the beat of the motor boat saving the fisherman the toil of the oar, 

 the whine of the cream separator morning and evening. These are 

 new and universal sounds. But most things were unchanged when 

 one passed the Western part of the main road on which automobiles 

 could travel. One saw the same small wooden houses with the dormer 

 windows and the outward curve of the eaves inherited from Old 

 France, though there were a few more of them. The outdoor 

 ovens of stones and clay were still in use to bake excellent bread; 

 the gaunt six rayed or eight rayed windmills still faced the north- 

 western gales; the long underwater fences of the traps reached out 

 to sea as of yore and the drying nets and the long fish fîakes shingled 

 with flattened cod were spread at every inlet along the coast; while 

 the overpowering fragrance of decaying fish assailed one's nostrils 

 everywhere. The gray sea was the same, and the green woods and 

 the mountains and the driving fogs were unchanged; and the men, 

 women and children and the dogs and horses were very little different 

 from the people and the dogs and the horses of forty years ago. 



There are still seigneuries in Gaspé, as in the days of Bigot and 

 Champlain, but the seigneurial rights have diminished. The people 

 are still, as a rule, polite and respectful toward strangers. The school 

 boys doff their caps and the little girls bow and say ''bon jour'' or 

 ''bon soir, monsieur'' when you meet them on the road. The church 

 is still as powerful a factor in the lives of the people as in olden days, 

 though the well-to-do driver of your carriage may tell you regretfully, 

 as 3^ou admire the splendid new Church built of a mosaic of Archaian 

 boulders, that it cost $100,000 instead of the $68,000 which had been 

 estimated. Morals are perhaps even more closely watched than in 

 the past and the fisherman who delights you with his violin playing in 

 the evening tells you with a somewhat sarcastic smile that the priest 

 has forbidden dancing in the parish, so that now he can only play to 

 amuse himself. 



The Gaspesians are a hospitable people and when one gets 

 beyond the villages with their little hotels, usually clean and com- 

 fortable, some thrifty family will always take one in for a meal or 

 for a night. The bread may be of home grown rye and the pea soup 

 may be followed by the fattest of fat bacon, but there will be cream 



