THE HYACINTH. 613 



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beyond that period, however well the bulbs may be kept, growth 

 commences, the bulb feeds on the deposit of the previous year 

 contained within itself without the means of recruiting the supply, 

 and a loss of power is the consequence. Plant, then, in the 

 month of October, applying a greater or less degree of heat, 

 according to the season or seasons at which the flowers are 

 wanted. If a very early, a very late, or a long succession of 

 bloom be required, some should be planted earlier, and some 

 later; but the month recommended above is the best, if the 

 finest possible bloom is required, without regard to any definite 

 period. 



3. — After Cuh-ture. 



The culture of Hyacinths falls naturally under three heads : 

 1, In pots, 2, In glasses. 3, In the open ground. 



1. Hyacinths in Pots. — It is a matter of no small impor- 

 tance to secure a suitable soil, for although the plant in the first 

 instance feeds on itself, the roots, once in action, draw largely 

 from the soil in order to replace the nourishment withdrawn 

 from the bulb. A sandy loam should form the bulk of the soil, 

 but such being usually poor, it must bo enriched by a plentiful 

 addition of manure. Cow-dung is the best of manures for the 

 Hyacinth, and it is a good plan to obtain it in a fresh state, mix- 

 ing it with the loam six months before required for use, turning 

 the whole over two or three times in the interval, that the diffe- 

 rent substances may be well mixed together. When planting, 

 place the bulb in the middle of the pot, setting it quite upright on 

 a small bed of sand, and so that the apex of the bulb may be half 

 en inch above the level of the soil. Soak the soil with water, 

 and when well drained place the pots, in the first instance, out of 

 doors on solid ground that worms may not enter. Surround the 

 sides of the pots with cinder-ashes, and cover the top .with about 

 six inches of the same material. In about two mouths remove 

 the pots to a cold frame, covering with a mat for five or six days, 

 to avoid a sudden transition from darkness to light. When the 

 mats are withdrawn, give more or less air, according to the season at 

 which the bulbs are wanted to flower, bearing in mind that the more 

 air given the better, provided the frost be completely excluded. The 

 long drooping leaves which we see with some cultivators is due to 

 a too warm or too close atmosphere. So soon as the flower-spike 

 rises, a stiff wire should be passed between the bells the whole length 



