1834] JOUENAL— SCOTCH TOUR. 29 



top is crowned by a very ugly tower, but the view is splendid, 

 taking in nearly the whole length of Loch Fyne and the surrounding 

 mountains. 



Aug. 29. Left Inverary at 5.15 a.m. in a car and breakfasted 

 at Cairndow, having rounded the head of Loch Fyne and passed 

 Dunderawe Castle, in ruins. After breakfast, not being able to get 

 a car, we took a cart to carry Mr. Spence and our baggage, and 

 commenced the ascent of Glen Kinglas, a vale of great beauty, 

 gradually becoming more and more wild until after crossing the 

 river Kinlas ; a short but steep ascent brought us to Loch Eestal, 

 a very small lake on the top of the pass. Just beyond this place is 

 a stone, placed by the soldiers of General Wade after making the 

 road, and inscribed: "Rest, and be thankful." We however could 

 not take advantage of it on account of rain, which had commenced 

 about half way up the ascent and had been increasing in quantity 

 all the way. From this point the road descended all the way to 

 the head of Loch Long, through the romantic glen of Glen Croe, it 

 then rounds the head of that Loch and proceeds along a nearly flat 

 country to Tarbet. At the head of Loch Long is Arroquhar inn. 

 On reaching Tarbet inn, on Loch Lomond, we had some difficulty 

 in obtaining accommodation. Lord Harrowby and Lord Brougham 

 were expected, and arrived in the evening. ... I found Garnons 

 here, shut up by the rain. At about 10 p.m. we started in slippers, 

 with a lantern, to find our way to the cottage, the rain falling in 

 torrents, and having to pass through a narrow footpath, down steps, 

 over a narrow bridge, with a roaring burn flowing under it, and 

 through a field of oats. At length we reached our quarters, and 

 were glad to find that they were very neat, clean, and comfortable. 

 . . . The beds were built in to the end of the room, and formed of 

 straw, with a thin mattrass placed upon it, and confined in its place 

 by means of a board fastened in front. We found ourselves very 

 comfortable, and I can say that I never wish to have a better bed. 



Aug. 30. This morning we looked about the neighbourhood, 

 and determined, on account of the uncertainty of the weather, to 

 return to Glasgow. The steam packet came up the Loch, and we 

 went on board to see the head of the Loch. Noticed on the right 

 near Inversnaid a very pretty waterfall, close to the lake, and were 

 much pleased with the whole of the upper part of the lake ; there 

 are two or three islands of great beauty, but very small in it. On 

 our descent of the lake, the view of Ben Lomond is by far the best 

 that I have noticed, and the lake has a very fine appearance on 

 account of the numerous islands with which it is studded, causing a 

 different appearance almost every moment. 



Aug. 3L Sunday. Went to hear one of the Scotch clergy, and 

 was much pleased. 



Sept. 2. Left Glasgow at 7 a.m. and reached Lanark at 10.45 a.m., 

 passing on the right the castle of Bothwell, not in sight, now in 



