132 CHARLES CARD ALE BABINGTON. [1846 



quite covered with snow, and hidden with clouds and mist at its 

 base. Beyond this, to the east, other very lofty snowy mountains 

 extended as far as we could see. We spoke a Danish schooner, and 

 obtained from her captain a chart of the coast. She sailed beauti- 

 fully, and apparently wished to beat the " Antelope " — no go. Our 

 course was close by the outermost of the Westmen-Islands. Thus 

 in five days we again saw land. 



June 28. Sunday. At 4 a.m. passed close to Cape Reykjanes, 

 which is low, and has a very singular pointed rock near its south- 

 west side, called Karlsklip. We then beat up north at some distance 

 from the coast so as to weather Skagi and the reef projecting from 

 it. Spoke a Norwegian fishing vessel, and obtained some fine cod 

 from her. Then bore up direct for Reykjavik, not being able to 

 obtain a pilot. During the whole of the day the snow mountain 

 Snsefells-Jokul had a grand appearance, at a distance of from forty 

 to fifty miles north-west ; about half its height seemed covered with 

 snow. To the east of it a continuous range of lofty (but much 

 lower) hills with and without snow bounded the horizon. Our 

 captain not having ever been to Iceland before, did not like to 

 venture in too near to the coast without a pilot, and as he could 

 not get one, he stood off and on in the bay, until he got a man from 

 another vessel. By that time the wind had died away, and we 

 were only able to creep in. Soon afterwards we were boarded by 

 a pilot, who took us in close alongside of the town at 11.40 p.m. 

 There were two French cutters of war in the harbour, and several 

 small Danish craft. 



June 29. After breakfast we landed, and called upon M. Hoppe, 

 the Stiftamtmann, who was very kind. We then took a short walk 

 near the town. Afterwards we took the boat, and went four miles 

 up the water to the salmon fishery, rented from the King of 

 Denmark by M. Tsergessen, where they fished, and took nineteen 

 salmon. I walked over the hills towards the south. The hills 

 were very barren, covered with stones, Avith very little vegetation, 

 but with here and there some good turf. A great quantity of 

 Dryas, Cerastium latifoUum, Lychnis alpina, etc. Then returned after 

 a peculiarly fine day. The town is very little larger than that 

 described by authors, and very full of stock-fish, and having a very 

 fishy smell. A large house (the late house of correction) is being 

 converted into a school. Measles have been very destructive in the 

 island, and are now very prevalent. Numbers of gulls, solan geese, 

 and two fine eagles. Hills much like some of the wilder parts of 

 Scotland, but with some snow still upon them. 



June 30. Walked up to the same place as yesterday, by an 

 inland route over some bogs. The master of the fishery turned the 

 water off from the pool in the river into which the fish run in 

 ascending the water, and we obtained an immense number of 

 salmon. I then went to some rocks along the coast on the further 



