8 The Gardens of the Sim. [ch. i. 



is a very odd sight to see the masts of the first one glid- 

 ing away to the left, nothing else being visible but the flat 

 sea of sand as far as the eye can reach. Pilots are ne- 

 cessary for the Canal, and notwithstanding their special 

 knowledge and skill, vessels frequently get aground. 

 Coaling over, we get under way and enter the strip of salt 

 water which connects the Mediterranean with the Gulf 

 of Suez, passing through the flat desert, a distance of 

 about eighty-seven miles. The completion of this under- 

 taking, apart from facilitating European and Eastern 

 commerce, has also, if local report speaks truly, benefited 

 the climate of the district as well ; a current of cool air is 

 now attracted along its route, and the precious burden of 

 the rain-clouds has also been brought to this tract of arid 

 sands, which previously were almost entirely destitute of 

 showers. Another benefit to the dwellers on its shores is 

 the fish which travel along this strip of water-way and so 

 are caught close to the doors of those who live or who 

 are employed along its banks. At five mile intervals 

 along the banks are stations for signalling purposes, and 

 as the strip of seaway is not broad enough for two vessels 

 to pass each other, the Canal is widened at each " gare," 

 so that one vessel can make fast while the other passes. 

 The whole thing is regulated by a simple telegraphic and 

 signalling system. Nearly all these stations have little 

 gardens, but the prettiest of them all in this way is that 

 at the old Arab town and ferry station of Kantara, 

 through which many caravans pass on their way to and 

 from Cairo. Here is a tiny hotel, and several little 

 whitewashed houses with shady verandahs laden with 

 climbing plants of various kinds. One of the houses is 

 sheltered by a row of poplars, and the colour and fra- 

 grance of the oleanders were delightful. The Arabs call 

 this flower the " Eose of the Desert," and certainly at 



