CHAPTER XL 



THE SULTAN'S ISTANA AND THE " HLLL OF TEARS." 



A moonlight ride — A fragrant weed — The Istana — Modern armament — 

 "Gelah" — Royal hospitality — A social servant — The Sultan — State 

 sword or "Barong" — A Sulu dinner — A long audience — Curiosity 

 of the ladies — Departure to the mountain — A newly-made grave — 

 Orchids at home — A treat for our cattle — Rough climbing — Ferns 

 and mosses — The summit — Good views — Old traditions of the moun- 

 tain — A picnic under cocoa-nut palms — " Gelah " v. Hennessy — 

 Return to the Istana — Further audience of the Sultan — Former 

 civilisation — Carved wood-work — Old manufactures — Old enemies — 

 Physique of the Sulus — A pearl among the swine — Market-people — 

 Slavery — Language — Land culture — Native food products — Do- 

 mestic animals — Sea fruit. 



One evening about sundown, immediately after an 

 early dinner on board, we set off to the Sultan's Istana, 

 which is situated just at the foot of Bu'at Timantangis, 

 the highest mountain in the island. The distance from 

 the harbour at Meimbong is seven or eight miles, a 

 pleasant ride indeed across an undulating and tolerably 

 well cultivated plain. We had ordered our ponies to be 

 in readiness at the Orang Kayu's house, and the boat- 

 men who accompanied us from the ship soon saddled 

 them for us and made all ready. Mr. Anson Cowie 

 accompanied me. We had three ponies, two for our- 

 selves, and one for a Sulu lad who had charge of our 

 stores, guns, &c, and who came to attend to the ponies 

 and accompany us up the mountain, to ascend which was 

 the main object of our journey. All the little details 



