ST. MARY’S VILLAGE.—FORT OWEN. 261 
to state that Lieutenant Macfeely, although anxious to cross the mountains, yet, with a generous 
devotion to the interests of the survey, consented to take the charge of the return party by a 
new route, taking such animals as could best be spared, and a much less quantity of provisions 
than prudence would dictate, in order to take as little as possible from the depot at St. Mary’s 
village. 
St. Mary’s or Flathead village is situated near the western base of the Rocky mountains, on 
the St. Mary’s fork of the Bitter Root river. It was laid out by the Jesuit missionaries, and com- 
pleted by its present occupant, Mr. Owen, who had recently abandoned it from fear of the Black- 
feet. The Flatheads have a considerable village of log-cabins around Fort Owen, and own a 
large number of cattle. They are now absent on a hunt across the mountains. 
St. Mary’s is at present deserted by the priests, to whom the Indians are indebted for much of 
their knowledge, and many of the comforts of civilized life which they enjoy. I saw a considera- 
ble quantity of wheat, just harvested. They have also eggs, milk, potatoes, &c., articles formerly 
unknown to the western savage. 
September 2.—All hands have been occupied, since our arrival at St. Mary’s, in making prepara- 
tions for a final division of forces, taking an account of stock, and dividing the provisions, animals, 
&c., according to our respective wants. 
Lieut. Arnold will remain here, in charge of the depot of provisions and animals, &c., with Mr. 
Arnold, his assistant, and four men. He will complete his observations for latitude and longitude. 
Lieut. Macfeely, with two men and seventeen packers, will take twenty-three days’ provisions, 
and return to Fort Vancouver by the Nez Perces trail—a shorter but more mountainous route 
than that which we came over. 
I shall take Mr. Hoyt, my assistant, Antoine Plante, the guide, and sixteen men, and go by 
the way of the Blackfoot Pass to Fort Benton. I would take a less number of men with me, but 
Antoine, entertaining his old dread of the Blackfeet, refused to accompany me with fewer men. 
He is an old mountaineer, and his services are invaluable. 
We obtained an abundance of excellent beef from Mr. Owen, the owner of the fort. 
After providing for Lieut. Macfeely’s party and my own, I have something over two thou- 
sand rations to leave in depot for Governor Stevens’s party. These I have turned over to 
Lieutenant Arnold, together with sixty-five disabled horses, and a quantity of ammunition and 
quartermaster property. 
The companions of our long and weary march, from whom we separated at this place, gave us 
three hearty cheers as we parted from them—an earnest of our success. They would willingly 
have gone on with us, but the scarcity of provisions would not permit it. 
We marched twenty-five miles, and encamped in a fine meadow within five miles of Hell 
Gate. Discovered the first bear we had seen, but did not succeed in capturing him. 
September 3.—Barometer at sunrise 27.68 ; thermometer broken. We passed through the Hell 
Gate along the barks of the Blackfoot river. I think it decidedly a misnomer to call this beau- 
tiful region by so unholy a name. The sun does not shine on a better spot of earth. 
I find that my previous ideas of the Rocky mountain range were, so far as this section is con- 
cerned, entirely erroneous. Instead of a vast pile of rock and mountains, almost impassable, 
I found a fine country, well watered by streams of clear cold water, and interspersed with 
meadows covered with the most ]uxuriant grass. 
September 4—We crossed to-day the highest mountain in our route. It is one of the Rocky 
mountain range, and I think may be avoided in the construction of a railroad. It was raining 
heavily when we crossed it. It is covered to its summit with a heavy growth of timber. Saw 
some fine specimens of granite, and also quarries of white and variegated marble. 
After crossing the mountain we came to a fertile prairie, which we crossed, and passed through 
ten miles of excellent timber, and camped in Kammas swamp, twenty-five miles from our last 
night’s camp. This swamp is resorted to by the Indians to gather kammas. Guide Antoine 
