FROM HEADWATERS OF THE MISSOURI TO DALLES OF THE COLUMBIA, 505 
warmly upon the backgrounds of pine, the prospect was much more agreeable than experience 
had shown the reality to be. 
January 22.—Made a very early start, for we were well aware that we had a bard day’s travel 
of about thirty-five miles before us. Soon after leaving camp, in following up the Bitter Root, 
we struck a well beaten Indian trail, and by following it we found travelling much better. Though 
a bare place in the valley was found now and then, the snow was generally about six inches deep. 
Early in the afternoon we met a large party of Indians going to hunt. They were the most 
intelligent-looking and mannerly Indians I had yet seen. Some of them could talk English quite 
well, and even those that could not understand a word of it had learned the expression ‘‘ How 
d’ye do?” which they did not fail to repeat once or twice in passing. 
Late in the day we stopped at a camp-fire by the side of the road, at which three young men 
were seated. Upon seeing our pipes, they asked, by means of signs, for some tobacco. I handed 
one of them quite a large piece, from which they filled their pipes, and returned the remainder— 
something I never knew an Indian offer to do before. 
About 4 o’clock we arrived at the hospitable establishment of Messrs. Owen. It was with 
feelings of the greatest satisfaction that we again found ourselves under a roof; and that pleasure 
was thrice enhanced by the open-hearted cordiality with which we were received. 
In the valley we delayed until the 30th—one day passed at Fort Owen, the remainder at 
Cantonment Stevens, where Lieutenant Mullan has established his winter quarters fourteen miles 
higher up the river. Between these two points the valley was broader than below Fort Owen, 
and on each side of the trail knots of cattle and horses were grazing contentedly on the wide range 
The cattle, though never housed or fed, were, with few exceptions, in market order; and young 
calves, which had never looked beyond their mothers for protection and care, were sporting in 
the sun. 
Near Cantonment Stevens were several lodges of Flatheads; and, during our stay there, we 
were visited by many of that tribe, who were anxious to hear the news from the other side of the 
mountains, and to learn if the Blackfeet were still at war with their neighboring tribes. They 
had so often entertained delusive hopes of peace, and so often trusted to treaties and promises 
which had as often been broken at the pleasure of their treacherous enemy, that they had well 
nigh despaired of ever living in their own country unmolested. 
These poor Indians, whose boast it is that ‘they never shed the blood of a white man,” are, 
on account of their peaceable dispositions and their wish to follow the counsels of the whites, 
almost incessantly harassed by their more powerful neighbor across the mountains. Every year 
bands of their horses are run off, and more or less of their people fall victims to their lurking foe. 
From information obtained here, it was found impracticable, from want of snow, to continue 
further with our trains. On the 29th, therefore, two men, who had contracted to come only this 
far, were sent back with one train and four of the best dogs, and the remaining dogs were cast 
adrift to return to their natural masters, the Indians. 
I was also told by the Indians that it would be impossible to reach the Pend d’Oreille lake with 
horses, on account of the deep snows near that lake and want of grass for many days ; but, aware 
of the magnitude which a small difficulty assumes in the eyes of an Indian, contrary to their 
counsels, a sufficient number of horses and mules were received from Lieutenant Mullan, and 
eight bushels of oats and barley were bought for them from Mr. Owen, when, with the addition 
of one man from Mr. Mullan’s party and an Indian guide, preparations were made to leave the 
next day. 
After this reorganization, with three men and an Indian guide I left Fort Owen on the 30th, and 
recommenced my march towards the Pacific. I shall not soon forget the unostentatious hospitality 
of its proprietors, nor their kindness in furnishing me with many little conveniences and comforts 
for my journey, which I should otherwise have been without. 
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