544 FROM FORT BENTON TO LATITUDE 49° 30’. 
winter. Passed over a level or slightly-rolling plain, and in fifieen miles reached Nah-too-see or 
Medicine river, eight miles from its mouth. Having directed the men where to encamp, I rode 
down the river. Sun river, at its junction with the Missouri, is one hundred and seventy-five 
yards wide; deep, with a strong current. It does not overflow its banks, although they are no 
more than six to eight feet high. It is different from other streams in this country, in passing a 
broad valley bounded by hills of easy slope. The course of the Missouri is here northeast, and 
its banks are low. The soil is a light, sandy loam, of considerable fertility, and bears a luxu- 
riant crop of grass. The timber is poor, consisting of cotton-wood of small growth, white wil- 
low, birch, and box alder. As a location for an agency and farm, this does not compare favora- 
bly with the Highwood river, where the soil is better, timber and stone abundant, and the 
distance to the head of navigation on the Missouri only eighteen miles, while from here it is 
thirty-five miles. Saw a large number of geese, two of which I killed. Reached camp at sun- 
down. Made to-day 19.66 miles. 
May 13.—This is a clear, warm morning. Up early, and at 8 o’clock started up the river. 
The travelling is very bad. Heavy storms have passed here lately, and quantities of hail are 
still to be seen in the hollows, and the ground is so soaked with rain that the horses sink to their 
fetlocks in mud as tenacious as glue. Finding it impossible to travel here, we made a detour to 
the right, keeping on the hills, where the road is better. Struck the river again in a few miles, 
and continued up the river. Noticed to-day many birds commonly seen in the Western States, 
as the meadow lark, red-winged blackbird, cow birds, pigeon hawk, black eagle, robin, swallow, 
plover, mallard duck, teal, &c. It is impossible for me to procure specimens of birds, as I have 
no fine shot. 
Procured several varieties of flowers, which were carefully preserved. The river is becoming 
shoaler and more rapid. The country continues the same as near the mouth. Encamped at an 
early hour at the foot of a large island more heavily timbered than any point below. Half a 
mile below my camp is where the main train crossed the river, and, passing to the north of Crown 
Butte, entered the Blackfoot Pass. Crown Butte and the Big Knee near it are lofiy, flat-topped 
buttes, called by the Indians the Rattlers, and are prominent land-marks, indicating the position 
of the Blackfoot Pass and Lewis and Clark’s Pass. They can be seen from the Highwood 
mountains, sixty miles distant. Made to-day 234 miles. 
May 14, Sunday.—To-day we remained in camp, as I am opposed to travelling on the Sab- 
bath when there is not the slightest necessity for so doing. After breakfast I walked up the 
river, in the hope of finding some specimens for the natural history collection, but’was entirely 
unsuccessful. Excepting a number of new flowers, I saw nothing worth collecting. Returned 
to camp at sundown. Barometrical observations have been taken at proper points upon the 
route, and also observations in camp. 
May 15.—Morning clear and pleasant, but cool. Passed up the valley, keeping close to the 
river, and in five miles came to a flat-topped butte ; continued along its base in a narrow bottom, 
and in twenty miles found that the river washed the base of the butte, which is here of gray 
sandstone, rendering farther progress in this direction impracticable. Turned back, and made a 
long detour to the right, and struck the river again opposite two large islands, and here we en- 
camped, having made 24.52 miles. One mile from here we crossed Mr. F. W. Lander’s trail, 
which is not correctly laid down on the map. The river does not fork here, and channels be- 
tween islands must have been mistaken for the three forks laid down. Collected to-day six new 
varieties of flowers, but saw no snakes or reptiles. Country the same as passed over yesterday ; 
grass luxuriant; hills low, and no coulées. Night clear and cool. 
May 16.—Moved early, keeping now on the high ground, and cutting the bends of the river as 
the valley is becoming narrow. Country more broken, and soil better than I have yet seen. 
River bends more to the west, and we are now travelling directly towards the mountains, the 
more lofty of which are covered with snow. On our right, about the centre of the great semi- 
