LETTER TO SECRETARY OF WAR.—LETTER OF LIEUTENANT MULLAN, 633 
Orricrt NortuHern Paciric Rattroap ExPLoraTION AND SURVEY, 
Olympia, Washington Territory, March 6, 1854. 
Str: I have the honor to inform you that, on the 4th instant, Garry, the chief of the Spokanes, 
reached this place with an express from the St. Mary’s valley, bringing letters from Lieutenant 
Mullan, and information that the route from that place was entirely practicable for horses; no 
snow of greater depth than one and a half foot having been found, and that depth only in crossing 
by the trail the divide between the Jocko and the Bitter Root river and some of the mountain 
spurs that overhang Clark’s fork. The express left the camp of Lieutenant Mullan on the 17th 
of January. 
Lieutenant Mullan, on the 28th of November, left his camp to make the connexion with Fort 
Hall, and, crossing the Rocky mountains twice, both going and returning, but in different routes, 
he reached his cantonment on the 12th of January. A copy of his report I herewith enclose. I 
will particularly call your attention to his statement that the grass was luxuriant in the mountain 
valleys; that the greatest depth of snow on the Rocky Mountain divide was fifteen inches; and 
that Victor, the Flathead chief, was, at the date of his letter, (the 12th of January,) crossing the 
mountains on his return from the plains beyond. 
I hope to be able to send off my preliminary report by this steamer. The drawing and report 
are all but finished. A railroad line is laid down from actual observation, (the line of Lewis and 
Clark’s Pass and of the Columbia and Cowlitz rivers.) No grade exceeds fifty feet, and only for 
a few miles is the grade more than forty feet. There is but one tunnel, and that in crossing the 
Rocky Mountain chain; and the summit-level of the road is about five thousand feet above the 
sea. Every exertion has been made to prepare it at an earlier date; but the late arrival of Mr. 
Tinkham, and the great amount of materials to be examined and put together, will explain to 
the department the delay which has occurred. 
I expect the arrival of Lieutenant Grover in some two weeks, and I indulge the hope that his 
examinations will be decisive as to the snow question. 
Very respectfully, sir, your most obedient, 
ISAAC I. STEVENS, 
Governor of Washington Territory, in Charge of Exploration. 
Hon. Jerrerson Davis, 
Secretary of War, Washington, D. C. 
CantTonMENT Stevens. Birrer Roor Vattey, W. T., 
Junuary 12, 1854. 
Sir: I have the honor to report, that in conformity to the paragraph of your letter of instruc- 
tions, dated at the St. Mary’s village, of October 3d, 1853, “to continue the exploration of the 
country between the Rocky and Bitter Root ranges of mountains, extending to Fort Hall, to con- 
nect the survey of Colonel Fremont, and northward to the Flathead lake, and even to the upper 
waters of Clark’s fork of the Columbia,” I left my main camp, on the Bitter Root river, on the 
28th November, 1853, with the intention of making the connexion with Fort Hall, taking with 
me Mr. Adams as artist, the Flathead interpreter, Gabriel, as guide, and three men. I merely 
submit at present for your consideration the general character of the route followed, accompanied 
by a rough sketch, intending to send by next express, or by Lieutenant Grover, a detailed report 
and a map of the country passed over. In going to Fort Hall, I followed up the main stream of 
the Bitter Root river to its headwaters, by a very easy, practicable, and beautiful route, to the 
dividing ridge of the Missouri and Columbia waters. Here I found the ascent steep, and the 
divide very high, the descent being very easy and gradual. Empty wagons can, I think, how- 
ever, cross this divide in going to the south, but freighted ones not. In going towards the north 
there is no difficulty whatever, as wagons this season have crossed it. Crossing the dividing 
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