76 Borneo. 



the banks being cultivated as rice-fields, and little thatched 

 huts alone breaking the unpicturesque line of muddy bank 

 crowned with tall grasses, and backed by the top of the forest 

 behind the cultivated ground. A few houi*s beyond Jahi we 

 passed the limits of cultivation, and had the beautiful virgin 

 forest coming down to the water's edge, with it^ palms and 

 creepers, its noble trees, its ferns, and epiphytes. The banks 

 of the river were, however, still generally flooded, and we had 

 some difficulty in finding a dry spot to sleep on. Early in 

 the morning we reached Empugnan, a small Malay village 

 situated at the foot of an isolated mountain which had been 

 visible from the mouth of the Simunjon River. Beyond here 

 the tides are not felt, and we now entei'ed upon a district of 

 elevated forest, with a finer vegetation. Large trees stretch 

 out their arms across the stream, and the steep earthy banks 

 are clothed with ferns and zinziberaceous plants. 



Early in the afternoon we arrived at Tabokan, the first vil- 

 lage of the Hill Dyaks. On an open space near the river 

 about twenty boys were playing at a game something like 

 what we call " prisoner's base ;" their ornaments of beads and 

 brass wire, and their gay-colored kerchiefs and waist-cloths 

 showing to much advantage, and forming a very pleasing 

 sight. On being called by Bujon, they immediately left their 

 game to carry my things up to the " head-house " — a circular 

 building attached to most Dyak villages, and serving as a 

 lodging for strangers, the place for trade, the sleeping-room 

 of the unmarried youths, and the general council-chamber. 



It is elevated on lofty posts, has a large fire-place in the 

 middle and windows in the roof all round, and forms a very 

 pleasant and comfortable abode. In the evening it was 

 crowded with young men and boys, who came to look at me. 

 They were mostly fine young fellows, and I could not help 

 admiring the simplicity and elegance of their costume. Their 

 only dress is the long " chawat," or waist-cloth, which hangs 

 down before and behind. It is generally of blue cotton, end- 

 ing in three broad bands of red, blue, and white. Those who 

 can afibrd it wear a handkerchief on the head, which is either 

 red, with a narrow border of gold lace, or of three colors, like 

 the " chawat." The large flat moon-shaped brass earrings, 

 the heavy necklace of white or black beads, i-ows of brass 



