Wealthy Dyaks. 81 



producing such a deafening discord that I was glad to escape 

 to the round-house, where I slept very comfortably, with half 

 a dozen smoke-dried human skulls suspended over my head. 



The river was now so shallow that boats could hardly get 

 along. I therefore preferred walking to the next village, ex- 

 pecting to see something of the country, but was much dis- 

 appointed, as the path lay almost entirely through dense 

 bamboo thickets. The Dyaks get two ci'ops off the ground 

 in succession — one of rice, and the other of sugar-cane, maize, 

 and vegetables. The ground then lies fallow eight or ten 

 years, and becomes covered with bamboos and shrubs, which 

 often completely arch over the path and shut out every thing 

 from the view. Three hours' walking brought us to the vil- 

 lage of Senankan, where I was again obliged to remain the 

 whole day, which I agreed to do on the promise of the orang 

 kaya that his men should next day take me through two 

 other villages across to Senna, at the head of the Sarawak 

 River. I amused myself as I best could till evening by walk- 

 ing about the high ground near, to get views of the country 

 and bearings of the chief mountains. There was then another 

 public audience, with gifts of rice and eggs, and drinking of 

 rice wine. These Dyaks cultivate a great extent of ground, 

 and supply a good deal of rice to Sarawak. They are rich in 

 gongs, brass trays, wire, silver coins, and other articles in 

 which a Dyak's wealth consists ; and their women and chil- 

 dren are all highly ornamented with bead necklaces, shells, 

 and brass wire. 



In the morning I waited some time, but the men that were 

 to accompany me did not make their appearance. On send- 

 ing to the orang kaya, I found that both he and another 

 head-man had gone out for the day, and on inquiring the rea- 

 son was told that they could not persuade any of their men 

 to go with me because the journey was a long and fatiguing 

 one. As I was determined to get on, I told the few men 

 that remained that the chiefs had behaved very badly, and 

 that I should acquaint the Rajah with their conduct, and I 

 wanted to start immediately. Every man present made some 

 excuse, but others were sent for, and by dint of threats and 

 promises, and the exertion of all Bujon's eloquence, we suc- 

 ceeded in getting off after two hours' delay. 



F 



