122 Java. 



but not so much as to require any change of clothing ; and 

 to a person long resident in the hotter climate of the plains, 

 the air is always fresh and pleasant, and admits of walking at 

 almost any liour of the day. The vicinity is most picturesque 

 and luxuriant, and the great volcano of Gunung-salak, with 

 its truncated and jagged summit, forms a characteristic back- 

 ground to many of the landscajjes. A great mud eruption 

 took place in 1699, since which date the mountain has been 

 entii^ely inactive. 



On leaving Buitenzorg, I had coolies to carry my baggage 

 and a horse for myself, both to be changed every six or 

 seven miles. The road rose gradually, and after the first 

 stage the hills closed in a little on each side, forming a broad 

 valley ; and the temperature was so cool and agreeable, and 

 the country so interesting, that I preferred walking. Native 

 villages imbedded in fruit-trees, and pretty villas inhabited 

 by planters or retired Dutch officials, gave this district a very 

 pleasing and civilized aspect ; but what most attracted my 

 attention was the system of terrace-cultivation, which is here 

 universally adopted, and which is, I should think, hardly equal- 

 led in the world. The slopes of the main valley, and of its 

 branches, were everywhere cut in terraces up to a considera- 

 ble height, and, when they wound round the recesses of the 

 hills, produced all the effect of magnificent amphitheatres. 

 Hundreds of square miles of country are thus terraced, and 

 convey a striking idea of the industry of the people and the 

 antiquity of their civilization. These terraces are extended 

 year by year, as the population increases, by the inhabitants 

 of each village working in concert under the direction of 

 their chiefs ; and it is perhaps by this system of village cul- 

 ture alone that such extensive terracing and irrigation has 

 been rendered possible. It was probably introduced by the 

 Brahmins from India, since in those Malay countries where 

 there is no trace of a pi'evious occupation by a civilized peo- 

 ple, the terrace system is unknown. I first saw this mode 

 of cultivation in Bali and Lombock ; and as I shall have to 

 describe it in some detail there (see Chapter X.),I need say 

 no more about it in this place, except that, owing to the finer 

 outlines and greater luxuriance of the country in West Java, 

 it produces there the most striking and picturesque effect. 



