Taking a Census. 189 



chiefs, both great and small, came to Mataram, the abode of 

 the king, with their horses and their servants, and the bearers 

 of their sirih-boxes, and their sleeping-mats, and their provis- 

 ions. And they encamped under the tall waringin-trees that 

 border all the roads about Mataram, and with blazing fires 

 frio-hted away the ghouls and evil spirits that nightly haunt 

 the gloomy avenues. 



In the morning a great procession was formed to conduct 

 the Rajah to the mountain ; and the royal princes and rela- 

 tions of the Rajah mounted their black horses, whose tails 

 swept the ground. They used no saddle or stirrups, but sat 

 upon a cloth of gay colors ; the bits were of silver, and the 

 bridles of many-colored cords. The less important people 

 were on small strong horses of various colors, well suited to a 

 mountain journey; and all (even the Rajah) were bare-legged 

 to above the knee, wearing only the gay-colored cotton waist- 

 cloth, a silk or cotton jacket, and a large handkerchief taste- 

 f idly folded round the head. Every one was attended by one 

 or two servants bearing his sirih and betel boxes, who wei-e 

 also mounted on ponies ; and great numbers more had gone on 

 in advance, or waited to bring up the rear. The men in au- 

 thority were numbered by hundreds, and their followers by 

 thousands, and all the island wondered what great thing would 

 come of it. 



For the first two days they went along good roads and 

 through many villages which were swept clean, and where 

 bright cloths were hung out at the windows ; and all the people, 

 when the Rajah came, squatted down upon the ground in re- 

 spect, and every man riding got ofE his horse and squatted 

 down also, and many joined the procession at every village. 

 At the place where they stopped for the night, the people 

 had placed stakes along each side of the roads in front of the 

 houses. These were split crosswise at the top, and in the cleft 

 were fastened little clay lamps, and between them were stuck 

 the green leaves of palm-trees, which, dripping with the even- 

 ing dew, gleamed prettily with the many twinkling lights. 

 And few went to sleep that night till the morning hours, for 

 every house held a knot of eager talkers, and much betel-nut 

 was consumed, and endless Avere the conjectures what would 

 come of it. 



