312 The Moluccas — Ternate. 



CHAPTER XXI. 



THE MOLUCCAS TEENATE. 



On the morning of the 8th of January, 1858, I arrived at 

 Ternate, the fourth of a row of fine conical volcanic islands 

 which skirt the west coast of the large and almost unknown 

 island of Gilolo. The largest and most perfectly conical moun- 

 tain is Tidore, which is over four thousand feet high — Ternate 

 being very neai'ly the same height, but with a more rounded 

 and irregular summit. The town of Ternate is concealed from 

 view till we enter between the two islands, when it is discovered 

 stretching along the shore at the very base of the mountain. 

 Its situation is fine, and there are grand views on every side. 

 Close opposite is the rugged promontory and beautiful vol- 

 canic cone of Tidore; to the east is the long mountainous 

 coast of Gilolo, terminated toward the north by a group of 

 three lofty volcanic peaks, while immediately behind the town 

 rises the huge mountain, sloping easily at first, and covered 

 with thick groves of fruit-trees, but soon becoming steeper, and 

 furrowed with deep gullies. Almost to the summit, whence 

 issue perpetually faint wreaths of smoke, it is clothed with 

 vegetation, and looks calm and beautiful, although beneath are 

 hidden fires which occasionally burst forth in lava-streams, but 

 more frequently make their existence known by the earthquakes 

 which have many times devastated the town. 



I brought letters of introduction to Mr. Duivenboden, a 

 native of Ternate, of an ancient Dutch family, but who was 

 educated in England, and speaks our language perfectly. He 

 was a very rich man, owned half the town, possessed many 

 ships, and above a hundred slaves. He was, moreover, well 

 educated, and fond of literature and science — a phenomenon in 

 these regions. He was generally known as the king of Ternate, 

 from his large property and great influence with the native 

 Rajahs and their subjects. Through his assistance I obtained 

 a house, rather ruinous, but well adapted to my purpose, being 



