Return in a "Kora-kora." 353 



low, and about four tons burden. It had outriggers of bam- 

 boo about five feet off eacli side, wbicli supported a bamboo 

 platform extending the whole length of the vessel. On the 

 extreme outside of this sit the twenty rowers, while within 

 was a convenient passage fore and aft. The middle portion 

 of the boat was covered with a thatch-house, in which bag- 

 gage and passengers are stowed ; the gunwale was not more 

 than a foot above water, and from the great top and side 

 weight and general clumsiness, these boats are dangerous in 

 heavy weather, and are not unfrequently lost. A triangle mast 

 and mat sail carried us on when the wind was favorable, which 

 (as usual) it never was, although, according to the monsoon, 

 it ought to have been. Our water, carried in bamboos, would 

 only last two days, and as the voyage occupied seven, we had 

 to touch at a great many places. The captain was not very 

 energetic, and the men rowed as little as they pleased, or we 

 might have reached Ternate in three days, having had fine 

 weather and little wind all the way. 



There were several passengers beside myself : three or four 

 Javanese soldiers, two convicts whose time had expired (one, 

 curiously enough, being the man who had stolen my cash-box 

 and keys), the school-master's wife, and a servant going on a 

 visit to Ternate, and a Chinese trader going to buy goods. 

 We had to sleep all together in the cabin, packed pretty close ; 

 but they very civilly allowed me plenty of room for my mat- 

 tress, and we got on very well togethei*. There was a little 

 cookhouse in the bows, where we could boil our rice and 

 make our coffee, every one of course bringing his own provis- 

 ions, and arranging his meal-times as he found most conven- 

 ient. The passage would have been agreeable enough but 

 for the dreadful " tom-toms," or wooden drums, which are 

 beaten incessantly while the men are rowing. Two men were 

 engaged constantly at them, making a fearful din the whole 

 voyage. The rowers are men sent by the Sultan of Ternate. 

 They get about threepence a day, and find their own provis- 

 ions. Each man had a strong wooden " betel " box, on which 

 he generally sat, a sleeping-mat, and a change of clothes — 

 rowing naked, with only a sarong or a waist-cloth. They 

 sleep in their places, covered Avith their mat, which keeps out 

 the rain pretty well. They chew betel or smoke cigarettes 



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