2G TEE ATLANTIC. [chap. I. 



Next day we sounded in 1350 fathoms, about twenty miles 

 west of Fayal, in the depression which sej)arates the western 

 from the central group, and during the afternoon the line bold 

 island approached us, alternate cloud and bright sunshine bring- 

 ing out the full effects of its contour and coloring. The south 

 coast of Fayal is bounded by an abrupt cliff, perhaps from one 

 to two hundred feet in height, intersected every here and there 

 by deep valleys, and showing, where the cliff is too precipitous 

 to support vegetation, sections of lava streams of various col- 

 ors, and of beds of irregularly stratified scorias and ashes. The 

 main road runs along the top of the cliff ; and at intervals, usu- 

 ally at the point of intersection of a wooded gorge, a village of 

 low white cottages clusters roimd a black-and-white church, 

 surmounted by a large black cross. From the road the land 

 slopes gradually upward, passing into wide valleys terminating 

 in ravines in the side of the Caldeira, a peak upward of three 

 thousand feet in height, with a fine crater at the top of it, not 

 far from the centre of the island ; or running up abruptly upon 

 the many secondary cones and mounds of scoriae which are 

 scattered in all directions. On this side of the island w^heat is 

 chiefly cultivated, except in the valleys, where there are a few 

 vineyards and fields of maize upon the slopes. The wheat w^as 

 already yellowing for the harvest. The fields are small, sepa- 

 rated by walls of dark lava, built, as we were afterward told, 

 partly as shelter from the high winds, and partly as the easiest 

 means of stowing the lava blocks, which have to be removed 

 from the ground in the process of clearing. Another very ef- 

 fective addition to the fence serves also a double purpose : a 

 hedge of the common reed {Arundo donax) is usually plant- 

 ed within the wall, and runs up to a height of twelve or fif- 

 teen feet, adding greatly to the shelter, and producing a long, 

 straight, light cane, which is used in niany ways ; split up, it an- 

 swers the purpose of laths for supporting plaster, and the round 

 canes, bound together and often fitted in neat patterns, may 



