70 THE ATLANTIC. [chap. n. 



with approval, it was talked of easily and freely, and he did not 

 appear to be entirely beyond the pale of society. I had a curi- 

 osity to meet a murderer without having the responsibility of 

 any fiscal relations with him, and made an arrangement to call 

 at his cottage ; bat something came in the way and prevented 

 the visit. 



It turned out, however, that the poor fellow had not been 

 murdered or robbed at all. His body was found a week or twc» 

 after we left, lying, dried up with the scorching heat, on a ledge 

 near AYellington Peak ; he had wandered too far, and had been 

 overcome by heat and fatigue and unable to return — very prob- 

 ably he had had a sun-stroke. His purse and watch were in- 

 tact ; even the vultures had failed to discover him : he had gone 

 too far beyond the ring round the town where they chiefly find 

 their food. 



Fresh water is about the most important element at San Vi- 

 cente, for although heavy rains fall now and then, sometimes 

 the island is for a whole year without a shower. The water is 

 taken from deep wells sunk through the tufaceous rock ; and as 

 the supply is limited, the wells are carefully inclosed and pro- 

 tected, and closed except at certain times. A large well just 

 behind the town, in an octagonal building covered in with a 

 low-pitched roof, is the great centre of attraction ; thither from 

 early morning one can see files of stately negresses marching 

 with large rather elegantly formed earthen vases poised upon 

 their heads; and it is amusing to w^atch the congregation of 

 them good-naturedly helping one another to draw the water 

 and to fill their pitchers ; and chattering and laughing, and most 

 generously exhibiting their serviceable rows of pearly teeth. I 

 think the negroes at San Vicente are certainly better -looking 

 than those in the West Indies : their figures are slighter, and 

 they have altogether a lighter effect. ]^o doubt this carrying of 

 water-jars has a great influence in producing the erect gait and 

 ease of gesture for which the women especially are remarkable. 



