RAMBLE OVER DERBYSHIRE HILLS AND DALES. 119 
soon found ourselves on this elevated highway overlooking a vast 
stretch of country ; we 
‘* Saw the hills 
Grow larger in the darkness.” 
Down in the vale at our feet lay Middleton, half shrouded in the 
assembling mists, through which twinkled many a cottage light ; 
while above all in the calm sky we watched the red moon rising 
to assume her starry throne. It was a scene not easily forgotten, 
and, had we no thought for the morrow, should doubtless have 
wandered a good way further. It was half-past nine when we 
reached our cottage. 
Supper in Mrs. Fox’s old-fashioned room, and a chat over our 
tobacco with her, round the fire, was not the least pleasant sensa- 
tion of the day. This cottage where we were staying stands at a 
short distance to the west of the church, and next to the house 
where the plague broke out in the memorable 1665 ; indeed it is 
under the same roof, and was built at the same time. The walls 
are of immense thickness and well built, the floors are of stone 
nicely sanded, and the roof is covered with the same material ; it 
would almost seem as if it was intended to stand as long as the 
rock on which it is built. Inside, the walls are washed with a 
bright blue colour (a favourite fashion in the Peak), and behind 
our venerable hostess hangs a row of glittering household 
utensils ; an antique clock ticks against the wall, surmounted by a 
curious old jug made in the shape of a bear, a great curiosity, 
and as ancient as the clock; a bright fire-place and good fire; the 
door open till late in the night, whereat the jessamine peeps in 
and nods its star-like flowers ; and the four travellers round the 
fire, kicking up their slippered feet, complete the picture. Old 
Mrs. Fox* is telling us stories of by-gone days, and puffing at 
intervals her long clay pipe, which she seems thoroughly to enjoy. 
The air grows chill, the door is closed, and we sit till midnight 
listening to our ancient friend’s details of the plague, the gibbet 
* Mrs. Fox died June 4, 1872, at the advanced age of 96. 
