146 RAMBLE OVER DERBYSHIRE HILLS AND DALES. 
boasts of several a/dases), next claimed our attention ; and we were 
soon within sight of the truly wonderful entrance to this far-famed 
wonder of the Peak, than which nothing is finer in the whole 
county: the immense span of the natural arch, with the 
enormous precipice above, and the gloom of its deep recesses, all 
give it a grandeur unsurpassed. From the comparatively small 
amount of light in the deep ravine where the cavern is situated, 
we were obliged to give our plates a very long exposure ; in the 
meantime we were much amused in watching the busy groups of 
twine-makers as they walked to and fro, into and out of the dark- 
ness, as they followed their employment, while ever and anon 
a singing shout of “ tur-r-r-n!” assailed our ears, and round went 
the great wheels and reels. I sat here, close by the guide’s hut, 
watching their nimble movements and listening to their mono- 
tonous cries with a running accompaniment of caws from the 
jackdaws in the rocks and trees above, till I fell into a doze, from 
which I was awakened by my companions when the plate was 
done. So long had been the exposure that the moving figures left 
no trace in the picture, which turned out a very good one. 
The guide told us that since my last visit here the innermost 
recesses of the cavern had been made more easy of access, and 
that visitors had not now to lie on their backs in the flat boat to be 
pushed over the “‘ first water.” What a pity! I remember well 
that it was about the most exciting and interesting part of the 
underground journey, for I was afraid of my fair companion 
setting fire with her candle to the straw in which we lay! There 
was no jumping up out of the way of fire in such a case, for the 
solid roof of rock came down to within a few inches of our noses. 
We had no time for exploring caverns* now, for we wanted to 
get on our journey, yet it was four o’clock when we left Castleton 
by the rocky pass of the Winnats, or Wind-gates, for the wind is 
supposed always to be blowing great guns up here. Before 
reaching the Speedwell Cavern, we came across Soft Sammy,—or 
* Besides the Great Peak Cavern, Castleton boasts of the Speedwell and 
Blue John mines, each worthy a visit. The Odin mine is still worked, and is 
one of the oldest lead mines in the kingdom. 
