FISHES. 93 



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 Ijarbels are somewhat like those of the horned pouts (Silurida^), whence the subordinal 

 name, Glaiiostomi, referred to above. The small transverse mouth is toothless, and can 

 be protruded for the purpose of feeding. 



The genus Acipenser embraces the stui-geons, the largest fishes found in fresh water. 

 It is distinguished from the only other genus by having a flattened conical snout, a spi- 

 racle above eacli eye, and by liaving the five rows of bony plates distinct throughout. 

 Seven species of sturgeons are found in the waters of the United States. First to be 

 mentioned is the common sturgeon, Acipenser stiirio, which is also found in the seas 

 and rivers of Europe. In the older works it is called ^-1. o.ri/rrhynchrcs, but the differ- 

 ences between specimens from the two shores of the Atlantic are slight. On our coast 

 it ranges south to Florida. In color it is grayish brown above, silvery on the lower 

 jiart of the sides, and white beneath. In the European seas this species attains a length 

 of eighteen feet. Next in order comes the A. transmontanus of the Pacific coast 

 south to Monterey. It sometimes weighs six hundred pounds. In the Mississippi and 

 its tributaries, as well as in the great lakes, occurs the lake sturgeon, Acipenser ruhi- 

 cundiis, a much smaller species than the two just mentioned. According to Gilnther this 

 species is sometimes found on the coast of Europe, but as a rule it does not usually 

 descend to the sea. A large specimen will weigh one hundred pounds. 



All of these species, as well as those of Euroj)e to be mentioned below, are used to 

 a varying extent as food, but the green sturgeon (^A. medirostris) of tlie Pacific coast, 

 a large species, has the re]iutation of being poisonous. The sturgeons have mostly a 

 migratory habit like the salmon, ascending the rivers for the purposes of rejiroduction. 

 At times they are very numerous in the Hudson, and their reddish-colored flesh 

 is in a jocular way spoken of as ' AlV>any beef.' Still, the flesh of the common sturgeon 

 is not extensively used as food on the Atlantic coast. In the central region A. rubi- 

 candiis is used somewhat more, while the Pacific sturgeon, caught in the Sacramento 

 and Columbia rivers, is brought to market in considerable quantities. 



Of the European species, tlie sterlet (Acipenser ruthenics), the bielaga, huso, or 

 hausen (A. Jtuso), the common sturgeon {A. sturio), and a fourth form, the osseter 

 {A. gilldensUadtiij, are the best known. Largest of these is the huso of the rivers 

 falling into the Black and Caspian seas, which sometimes reaches a length of twenty 

 or twenty-five feet, and a weight of nearly three thousand pounds. In the early 

 spring, when the ice is still hi the rivers, the huso leaves the sea to ascend the streams. 

 Across the Volga and other streams the fishermen drive long stakes leading to a trap, 

 the whole resembling an eel weir on a large scale, except that the apex of the angle is 

 turned up stream. To warn themselves of the approach of the fish, the fishermen 

 suspend bobs in the water, the motion of which is of course an indication of their 

 presence. The sterlet is a much smaller species, only about three feet in length, but 

 it is very highly prized on account of the delicacy of its flesh. In Europe the 

 common sturgeon occurs only in the west, those found in the Thames being regarded 

 as a royal fish and reserved for the table of the sovereign. 



Not only is the flesh esteemed a delicacy by many, but from the roes (ovaries) the 

 celebrated caviai-e is pi-epared. This can be made from the eggs of any sjiecies, but 

 that of the sterlet is the most highly esteemed, and is supplied to the table of the 

 Tzar. The rocs are taken from the female fish, washed with vinegar, salted, and dried. 

 Tastes differ as to the jialatability of this dish; to some it is a great delicacy, while 

 others regard it in a greatly different esteem. Indeed, the word has passed into a 

 proverb, and through Hamlet, Shakespeare says, " 'T was caviare to the general." One 



