Some ANCIENT CHAPELS OF KNAPDALE. al 
Sound of Jura, I had passed within a few miles of Eilean Mor, it 
was not until this year (1907), when I undertook a cruise to the 
Sound with Eilean Mor as a definite objective, that I succeeded 
in realising a long-standing desire to land on the island and 
examine the curious little chapel. 
On a fine July forenoon a fellow-member of this society and 
I reached the western end of the Crinan Canal in a little 
motor and sailing cruiser, and moored in the basin at Crinan. 
Crinan to the ordinary tourist is merely the end of the canal, and 
is associated chiefly with speculations as to whether luggage has 
been properly transhipped, but to the antiquary it is specially 
interesting as the centre of a district full of early historical 
associations. Within a mile or two is the ancient capital of the 
Dalriadic Kingdom—“ Dun Add ’’—and hardly a mile can be 
travelled in any direction without coming on a stone circle, fort, 
or cairn. 
In the afternoon, with the ebb tide in our favour for the 
fong run down the sound, we passed through the sea loch into 
Loch Crinan, and hoisted canvas to a pleasant off shore breeze. 
Passing the pretty Crinan Bay and Harbour, we rounded the 
bluff Ardnoe Point and entered the Sound of Jura. ; 
The Sound of Jura, may, I think, lay claim to being not 
only the largest but the grandest in respect of scenery of the 
sounds of the West Highlands. It is also the least advertised 
and tourist overrun, and is to-day one of the most solitary 
stretches of water in the Hebrides. As the West Highland 
steamers, on both their outward and inward passages, pass 
through the sound in the middle of the night, a steamer is but 
an occasional sight on its wide expanse. 
Our intention being to anchor over night in the little bay 
in Eilean Mor, we were in no hurry to reach the island much 
before sunset, and, though the breeze did not do more at times 
than give us steerage way, we had no desire to shorten the 
pleasure of the run down the sound by resorting to the engine. 
Through the long hot, afternoon we drew slowly southward, 
along the coast of the long and narrow peninsula, on the other 
side of which lies Loch Sween. Probably no part of Knapdale, 
which, as a district owes its name to the striking ruggedness of 
its surface, shows such a wonderful diversity of scenery as this. 
For some distance south of Crinan the coast to the Sound of 
