re 
SomE ANCIENT CHAPELS OF KNAPDALE. 
called from that circumstance Portnacroish, i.e., the Harbour 
of the Cross.”’ 
Just before sunset we reached the island, and running into: 
the sheltered little “ Harbour of the Cross,’’ on the north side, 
we landed at what might well have been the ancient landing 
place of the saint. We found that we were not to be the only 
occupants that evening of the snug anchorage in the little bay, 
usually so solitary, some lobster fishers having also come to: 
anchor there. On landing, we naturally turned first towards 
St. Carmaig’s Chapel, which stands about the centre of the 
island, a short distance up from the head of the bay. 
Eilean Mor itself is roughly about half-a-mile in diameter, 
indented on the north by the pretty little inlet called the 
“Harbour of the Cross,’’ which affords secure anchorage for a 
small craft in anything but due north winds, which are not at all 
frequent. Elsewhere the shores are steep and rocky, and off the 
coast, especially to the south, lie a number of islets and reefs. 
The highest point, 71 feet above sea level, is towards the south 
of the island, and on this, on a rough stone base, stands the 
mysterious cross which so miraculously floated back from the: 
Mull of Kintyre. What is standing is merely the stem, about five: 
feet high, the disk having been broken off. As if to give point 
to the legend of its miraculous return, the disk was discovered’ 
on the shore by T. S. Muir on his visit in 1864, and placed 
in the chapel, where it still remains. On the west face of the: 
stem is carved an animal surrounded by foliage, and on the 
east a now almost obliterated inscription. On one side of the 
disk is a representation of the crucifixion. 
Standing on this, the highest point of Eilean Mor, we had a 
wonderful view of the tide race round the island. The full’ 
sweep of the flood tide up the sound had by this time set in, and 
being broken up by the island and the reefs and islets lying off 
it, cross currents and eddies were setting in all directions, their 
lines clearly marked on the calm sea, while the air was filled 
with a haunting subdued roar, weird and indescribable. 
In the south-east of the island is a little roofless building 
about eleven feet square, with very thick dry-stone walls, and’ 
one small opening to the south, which tradition says was St. 
Carmaig’s first cell. Near it is the magic pit. 
Close to the chapel itself is the supposed tomb of the saint, 
