1889-90.] Round about tlie Northern Cliffs. 373 



over the tops of these rocks, which are more than four hundred 

 feet high. At Wick there is painful evidence of its vehemence 

 furnished by the remains of a pier demolished while in course 

 of construction, blocks of stone weighing hundreds of tons 

 having been conveyed to a considerable distance, where they 

 now lie, to the disfigurement of the bay and the danger of 

 shipping. The seaward view from Thurso commands the pro- 

 digious western precipices of Hoy in the distance, perhaps the 

 finest cliff scenery in Britain, with the Orkney hills beyond. At 

 Holburn Head a noticeable object is the Clett, a huge detached 

 pillar of rock, which stands sentinel-like and crowned with grey 

 — more, however, the result of sea-bird indignities than the 

 natural hoary-headedness of age. Indeed around the northern 

 cliffs there is much to delight the artist's eye and to worthily 

 employ his hand ; while the naturalist, sportsman, and ordinary 

 holiday-maker can each and all find something to suit their 

 respective tastes. Even children may be congenially occupied 

 in gathering the beautiful cowries and other shells met with 

 in the neighbourhood. 



A cruise round the cliffs, especially about July, the bird- 

 nesting season, is an experience that must impress any one, 

 however free from ornithological leanings, — for to be indifferent 

 to nature as seen here in her moods of grandest wildness, her 

 frowning face fanned by countless hosts of varied attendants, 

 would be impossible. The small boats of the North are 

 chiefly remarkable for heaviness and breadth of beam, so there 

 is no danger of getting upset ; and their consequent slowness of 

 progression, instead of being a fault, is perhaps an advantage, 

 allowing one plenty of time to gaze on the many sights claim- 

 ing attention. If a person is his own boatman, the case is 

 otherwise, for he is likely to raise his temperature, his temper, 

 and blisters on his hands, before going far. Having done so, 

 he cannot do better than lay the oars aside for a while to 

 peer into the clear depths below, where the sand is formed 

 into small ridges like wavelets, interspersed with clumps of 

 different kinds of sea- weeds and subterranean forests of dense 

 ever-changing olive foliage, that wave in the water as if shaken 

 by a gentle breeze. He may see flounders, coal-fish, and 

 other inhabitants of the ocean ; and if not inclined to fish, he 

 can watch a number of feathered fishers, including, at least 



