374 Round about the Northern Cliffs. [Sess. 



occasionally, that large beautiful bird, the great northern 

 diver. Seals, though not so common as formerly, have still 

 a few representatives left, one of which may thrust its round 

 head above water a short distance from the boat, and fix its 

 intelligent gaze on the occupants for a second or two, to dis- 

 appear upon gratifying what seems to be a natural curiosity 

 characteristic of the animal. Should the weather be warm, 

 a shoal of porpoises may be seen disporting themselves by 

 tumbling over on the surface of the water in a series of short 

 dives. If you are armed with a gun, neither they nor seals, 

 it must be admitted, are liable to appear ; and, for similar 

 reasons, should you during a short stay be very anxious to 

 see a whale, you may be disappointed, although they, too, pay 

 flying visits to the vicinity, which by fishermen are regarded 

 as an indication that herrings abound in the course they follow. 

 On approaching the cliffs, it has often been remarked that 

 they inspire a person with feelings of awe and solitariness, 

 the solitary feeling being as strange as it is unaccountable, for 

 no one could expect such a company of its kind as appears 

 along the route. The welcome accorded is lively in the 

 extreme, if not altogether expressive of good-will, — a thousand 

 throats, each of which gives out its own peculiar guttural 

 sound, joining in chorus at the same time. The teeming com- 

 munity lodges in every fissure and on every ledge, wherever 

 there is a foothold, and the croaks of some can be heard that 

 are themselves invisible. But the numbers seen of different 

 kinds are amazing enough : they are perched everywhere, and 

 in their passage to and from the sea remind one of populous 

 beehives on a hot sunny day. Wherever they are, the place 

 is conspicuous, because there the cliff is stained a chalky 

 white. You were struck by a strong smell of guano as you 

 drew near the noisy region ; and if you are allowed to return 

 without being struck by anything more disagreeable, you may 

 consider yourself lucky. Already there is a cloud of sea-gulls 

 wheeling overhead in clamorous complaint, protesting against 

 having their seclusion invaded ; but they alone, unless a few 

 crows occasionally, demonstrate in this fashion. The diver 

 tribes — cormorants, razor-bills, guillemots, &c. — show perfect 

 indifference to your presence, and keep the even tenor of 

 their way. Gulls, however, have more to dread, their nests 



