Scottish Life in the 17TH Century. 287 



simplicity of their lives. Tartan was going out of use as the 

 common material of dress in the lowlands ; but it was still 

 preserved in the plaids of the men and in the " screens " of the 

 women, the latter being a light shawl, which in the case of 

 unmarried persons was made to ser\e the purpose of a head- 

 covering. The men at the time of which I speak wore coats of 

 waulked plaiding, made of a mixture of black and white wool in 

 an undressed state, and the product, of course, of their own 

 looms; their knee-breeches were of white plaiding; their head- 

 dress was the Kilmarnock bonnet, of blue or black, only the 

 lairds wearing hats ; and their shoes were rudely made by shoe- 

 makers — cordwainers they were called — who exposed their wares 

 on the street twice a week in the town, or who travelled from 

 house to house in the country. Shirts were little worn, and they 

 were made of coarse woollen. The gowns of the women were 

 made of coarse plaiding or drugget ; and home-made linen was 

 used in the wardrobes of those who could afford it. Allan 

 Ramsay belongs to a somewhat later date ; but we may accept 

 his picture of rural life in "The Gentle Shepherd" as fairly 

 applicable to this period; and we have a glimpse of the prevail- 

 ing style of dress in Jenny's description of Roger, her shepherd 

 beau : — 



" He kaims his hair indeed, and gangs richt snug, 

 Wi' ribbon-knots at his blue bonnet lug, 

 Whilk pensilie he wears a thought a-jee ; 

 And spreads his gartens diced beneath his knee ; 

 He faulds his o'erlay doon his breast wi' care ; 

 And few gang trigger to the kirk or fair." 



For a glimpse of those of higher degree we are again 

 indebted to the I,ord Provost and his travelling companion. 

 The laird of Munches, whom they went to visit, was wearing 

 a broad blue bonnet, a long home-spun coat of blue colour, knee 

 breeches of the same material, and rig and fur stockings. Ladv 

 Munches, as his wife was termed by the custom of the period, 

 wore a close linen cap ornamented with a coloured ribbon, 

 and a gown composed of lindse\-woolsey spun in the family and 

 woven by the village weaver. But on state occasions, such as 

 the Hogmanay festivities, which the city visitors witnessed, the 

 dresses were expensive and even ostentatious. The clothes of 

 gentlemen in full dress were fringed with gold and silver. The 

 coats had very wide sleeves, with immense cuffs folding back 

 nearly to the elbows, and were ornamented with a profusion of 

 large gilded or gold buttons. The waistcoats descended nearly 

 to the knees, and contained most capacious pockets. The 

 breeches were short, and the knees and shoes sparkled with 

 immense silver buttons. Elderly gentlemen wore large wigs, 

 decorated with numerous rows of curls, and a large toupee in 

 front, the whole surmounted with a magnificent cocked hat. 



