Proceedix(;s, 1015. 27 



apparently satisfactory results, with little or no damage done to the plants, and the 

 next time I used it, although using exactly the same quantity, there was a large 

 amount of damage done; this, I believe, is caused by a possible difference of tempera- 

 ture and humidity in the atmosphere of the houses. 



The damage caused by Thrips on roses is similar to that on carnations, as they 

 attack the rose-buds almost in the same manner, and the same treatment is 

 applicable. 



The procedure of attack on chrysanthemums is considerably different. When 

 attacked, plants show on the tips of the leaves a slightly yellowish appearance, also 

 a thickening of the young leaves. On the tips of the plants, upon close examination, 

 numbers of the insects will be found on the under-side and sometimes on the top 

 side of the leaves. To destroy these, spraying can be done, as, different from the 

 carnation or rose, you can reach them with the spraying material. I have found 

 that tlie nicotine solutions before mentioned, with a little soap added, to be very 

 satisfactory, also the whale-oil soap and quassia-chips do very good work. 



Take 1 lb. of quassia-chips and S oz. of whale-oil soap ; boil together for one 

 hour in 1 gallon of -water, then strain. Make up evaporation caused by boiling so 

 that you have 1 gallon of the liquid. When using, add twelve parts of water. 

 This is a very economical and efficient spray. 



Thrips attaclv most of the commercial pot-plants that are grown in greenhouses, 

 such as gloxinia, cyclamen, fuchsia, etc. ; but if taken in time, spraying or dipping 

 in the before-mentioned remedies will be found efficient. 



Red Spidee. 



This insect, I consider, is next in line as causing most loss and damage in the 

 greenhouse. 



- General Appearance. — They are exceedingly small and individuals are seldom 

 noticed. Their colour is red with a yellowish tinge, and usually witli two darker 

 spots on each side of the bod.r. Their appearance will first he noticed by the leaves 

 of the plants having a pale and unnatural green colour, and upon examining the 

 imder-side of the leaves there will be found numbers of these insects. It attacks 

 nearl.y all plants grown under glass. 



Control. — This pest, fortunatel.v, is easily destroyed and kept under control. All 

 that is required is heavy but careful syringing by water, but it is very necessary 

 that the under-side of the leaves must be s.yringed, and there is no excuse for any 

 grower who possesses a good w-ater-suppl,y to receive much loss from the depreda- 

 tions of this insect, although, if not kept in check, red spider \vill cause the loss 

 of the whole crop of chrysanthemums and other plants. 



Sometimes during the middle of winter, when it is unsafe to syringe carnations 

 and roses very heavily, red spider will get a foothold, especially those plants close 

 to the heating-pipes, but just as soon as the days lengthen and we get more sun- 

 shine, syringing can be resumed and little damage will have resulted, providing that 

 the plants have been kept clean from this pest previous to such time when syringing 

 h.Td to be discontinued on account of weather conditions. 



Green Aphis. 



This insect hardly needs any description, as it is so conunonly known. It 

 attacks practically all plants grown under glass, and if not destroyed or kept in 

 check will do a lot of damage; in fact, it will ruin any crop that it attacks unless 

 means are taken to destroy them. Fortunately thoy are the easiest of all insects 

 to kill. 



I have found that any of the before-mentioned nicotine solutions will destroy 

 them, used either as a spray or vaporized. The whale-oil soap and quassia-chips 

 are also very effective, .but vaporizing Is the hest method, as by that means you 

 kill all of the young aphides, when by spraying you only kill those that come in 

 contact with the spray. 



