256 THE NINE FISH MOST HIGHLY PRIZED 



In my list, which excludes the Echineis, despite its being 

 according to Cassiodorus ^ " that honey of flesh, that dainty of 

 the deep," in precedence comes i the Mullus, 2 the Scarus, 

 3 the Acipenser, 4 the Rhombus, 5 the Lupus, 6 the Asellus, 

 7 the Eel and the Murcena, 8 the Kcnrpog, 9 the Sole. 



1. Mullus [M. barbatus), the " Red Mullet." The passages 

 already quoted as regards the huge prices sometimes given for 

 it estabUsh the extreme esteem with which this fish was regarded. 

 But if need be, witness after witness to credit can easily be 

 called. Perhaps, as regards the Latins, Nonnius will suffice : 

 " Inter omnes pisces praerogativa quadam omniumque consensu 

 Mullus sibi imperium occupavit, nee alius unquam majori in 

 honore aut gratia apud Romanos fuit." 2 



Among the Greeks, if, as seems acknowledged, the rpiyXr] 

 corresponds to the Mullet, its place must be accounted high 

 from the number of its devotees. Matron ^ goes into raptures 

 even over its mere head when steeped in brine, irrespective 

 of whether it came from an autumn (as recommended by 

 Aristotle) or a spring fish (the choice of Xenocrates) . 



The acme of epicurean hospitality was reached with serving 

 the Mullet, not dead swimming in sauce, but aUve swimming 

 in a globe of glass, to be handed round among the guests. All 

 eyes gloated as its gay hues gradually grew dimmer, till at 

 last with death they faded into one dull colour. 



Seneca lashes with his bitterest irony the custom, and the 

 company. They are no longer content to satisfy their teeth 

 and their stomach — no, they must also gratify their eyes. 

 " No one now sits with a dying friend. None can bring him- 

 self to witness the death, however much desired ! of his father. 

 The last hours of brother or kinsman find no soul with him. 

 To the death of the Mullet have they all flocked with one 

 accord." * 



2. For the Scarus (S, cretensis), the " Parrot Wrasse," see 

 Chapter X. 



3. The Acipenser, a Latin name, adopted by some Greek 



1 Var. epist., III. 48. 



* Op. cit., p. 93. 



^ Matron, 'ArriKhy SeTirvov, 27 ff. ; ap. Athen. IV. 13. 



" Cf. Seneca, Nat. Qufvst., III. 18. Also Pliny, N. H., IX. 30. 



