THE VALLEY OF EL PASO. 7 



which this table-land assumes. It may further be observed, briefly, that this is the formation 

 that stamps the character of sterility on so large a scope of country forming those desert tracts 

 known as " Jornadas," of which the " Jornada del Muerto" is a noted example. It is to this 

 character of country, moreover, properly belongs the Spanish term "Llano Estacado," or Staked 

 Plain, a term which has been less appropriately applied by travellers to the cretaceous table- 

 lands of Texas, before noticed. 



The proper alluvial tracts of the Rio Grande, as here met with on our route, exhibit a belt of 

 variable width, from a mere narrow strip to several miles in breadth. Its lower portions are 

 marked by frequent sloughs and old river beds. The body of the soil is sandy, but acquires a 

 somewhat compact texture from the deposition of river slime, and is further enriched by the 

 decaying vegetation that luxuriates on its moist bottoms. 



The desert table-land is constantly encroaching on this alluvial belt, in the washing of its 

 numerous stream beds, or the finest sand wafted by the winds. The roads occupying the river 

 bottom are usually heavy, and whenever practicable are gladly exchanged by the traveller for 

 the compact table-land. 



The river itself presents few features of attraction. Its turbid waters sweep along during the 

 flood season, in June and July, a swollen tide, spreading its enriching sediment through the 

 various sloughs and lagoons that line its course, often cutting ofi' all approach by land to the 

 main channel. During low water, which includes the greater part of the year, the river con- 

 tracts its dimensions, running in a very variable channel^ over sandy shoals, interrupted by 

 numerous islands and exposed sand-bars. Occasionally, in very dry seasons, it ceases to run 

 altogether, and stands in stagnant pools. 



The portion of the river bottom at present under cultivation in connexion with the El Paso 

 settlements includes a large basin lying south of the El Paso mountains. In this is comprised 

 the large alluvial tract known as "The Island," which is 30 miles in length by 2 to 5 in breadth. 

 This island lies on the American side of the main channel, being separated from the adjoining 

 land by an old river bed, which, except in very low water, still carries a variable stream. The 

 bifurcation of these two arms of the river at the head of the island is taken advantage of to 

 direct a stream of irrigating water through the centre of this tract of land, extending nearly its 

 whole length, and furnishing from its main trunk side branches to supply the cultivated fields. 

 Thus in usual seasons a sufficient supply of water is obtained to meet the wants of ordinary 

 cultivation. At times, however, low water in the main channel is a certain precursor of drought ; 

 while at other times an unwonted abundance exposes to the danger of floods. 



On the main banks of the river, including the Mexican town of El Paso, and Franklin, on 

 the American side, these inconveniences are measurably obviated by drawing the irrigating 

 supply from a higher source. This is accomplished by the construction of an artificial dam, 

 located some two miles above these respective towns, thus allowing the construction of water- 

 gates and waste-weirs to regulate the supply of water according to need. 



Hitherto we have observed the Rio Grande in its character of a variable stream, bordered by 

 alluvial bottoms frequently of considerable width and extent ; these again everywhere limited by 

 gravelly table-land, sloping upward to the bases of distant mountains. A short distance above 

 El Paso a new feature presents itself, and we have the mountains themselves encroaching 

 directly on the bed of the river, which here passes in a contracted channel between rocky walls. 



