76 A COLLECTING TRIP 
Thibetans. They are totally different from the In- 
dians, for they look like Chinamen and are always 
happy and smiling. The men wear long pigtails and 
queer hats, which they frequently keep on their heads 
by fastening them with the pigtails. Each carries 
an enormous knife in his belt and all wear very large 
earrings, generally of turquoise or coral. (We pur- 
chased two pairs.) Their boots look like erazy quilts 
and seem to be made on that idea. As a rule they 
are quite finelooking. They all chew betel nut, which 
makes their gums and teeth red, and they seem to live 
principally on raw onions, a pretty bad combination. 
The women are very pretty and small, but strong as 
oxen. They literally do all the work; they make 
roads, lay ear tracks, drive bullocks, carry heavy 
stones, but they are always just as smiling and happy 
looking as are the men. They boss the men around 
continually. They cover themselves with ornaments, 
bracelets of silver and shells, necklaces of coral and 
turquoise, and huge turquoise earrings, even larger 
than those worn by the men. I should say they were 
four or five inches long. Their poor ears are pulled 
out of shape by them. 
On Monday morning (November 26) we got up 
at 3.30 and rode seven miles up and down some very 
steep mountains to a place called Tiger Hill. It was 
pitch dark and we heard many jackals. We arrived 
there in time to see the sun rise and it was glorious. 
From this hill, socalled although it is over seven 
thousand feet high, we saw Mt. Everest, and it was a 
erand sight. Kinchinjunga was also very plainly 
visible and with glasses we could see the glaciers in it. 
The color effects as the sun rose on these mountains 
