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number of gushing writers (many of them ladies) are responsible. 
Comparisons are allowed to be odious, but interesting as Spain 
is, it comes decidedly second to Italy. Travelling in some parts 
of Spain has not the exhilarating effect that might be expected, 
and there is a salutary tinge of melancholy in some of its 
pleasures. This is due largely to the strong contrasts forced on 
the mind betwixt the grandeur of and spirit of earlier times, and 
the comparative ruin and stagnation of to-day. It may be that, 
Pheenix-like, Spain may rise from its dead ashes; but there is 
little life and enterprise in Spanish cities now (Barcelona 
excepted). Such places as Toledo, Avila, Segovia, Salamanca, 
have been little altered for 200 years. At the grand old 
university city of Salamanca, war has effected a change. The 
Duke of Wellington wrote on June 18th, 1812: ‘‘ The French, 
among other acts of violence, have destroyed 13 out of 25 convents 
and 20 of 25 colleges.’ In the following year they pulled down 
most of the remainder in order to use the timber for firewood. 
The destruction of buildings would be a comparatively small 
matter, but the aspect of the towns is eloquent of the spirit of 
the people. There is in many parts at least an air of general 
depression and neglect, and misery and discontent have cast a 
sullen gloom over the Spaniard. This is not so observable in 
the South, but the people have sunk generally into a state of 
complete inertness. The long habit of distrust and terror 
inspired by the Inquisition still remains, and there is that listless 
indolence abroad which is equally dear to the uncivilized savage 
and the degenerate slave of despotism. It is admitted that the 
majority of statesmen are corrupt, popular representation is a 
farce, the Church lacks vital power, there are bitter internal 
hostilities and widespread estrangements. One province is 
jealous of another, indeed it may be doubted whether Spain has 
ever been fairly united. Concerning their towns (as was said of 
another country) many have nothing in common but a bridge, a 
church, and a mutual hatred. This would all lead to a feeling 
of hopelessness, but there is this in the background as a great 
reserve power. Despite his suspicions concerning all around 
him, he is intensely proud and has a firm belief in himself. A 
firm hand, a strong leading and guiding power is wanted to 
bring him into brighter life, but writers agree, and many 
educated Spaniards have sadly admitted to me that it will take 
centuries of time before the immense “ possibilities” of Spain 
will be developed into the certainties of a restored national 
greatness. This may be regarded by some as a very gloomy 
picture. This is largely behind the scenes. There is still an 
abundance of surface life, and a fair proportion seem easy enough 
about their country’s troubles to lose a day at once and make 
the most of it too! 
