70 
for the foreigner and feeling of superiority, hinders them from 
learning anything that would be to their benefit. They are 
fatalists, and the expression is always being introduced, *‘ What 
God wills, we must submit to.’ ”’ 
«There is a race of people in Morocco who have recently 
attracted the attention of Europe—the Berber Kabyles—a hardy 
race, dwelling secure in their mountain strongholds. It is said 
they remain to-day as unchanged as in the days of Pharoah, 
except that they have embraced the faith of Islam. The Kabyles 
pay little respect to the authority of the Sultan, whose chief 
power and influence are religious, and he finds it most 
difficult to collect his tithes from them. Were these hardy 
mountaineers thoroughly united, they would be able to set the 
Sultan at defiance, but inter-tribal rivalry has ever been their 
weakness, and the Moorish Government is always pitting one 
tribe against another ; the skill they gain in this way they em- 
ploy with great success in dealing with Kuropean Governments.” 
The Lecturer then proceeded to describe a visit to Algiers— 
thirty hours sail from Gibraltar or Marseilles. 
*« Aleiers, a new playground, is now almost as popular, and as 
largely patronised,as the resorts of the French or the Italian Riviera. 
Few towns on the Mediterranean have such a beautiful situation. 
There is a magnificent boulevard all along the shore. The Arab 
town in Algiers has nothing similar in the world. You cross the 
Rue de la Lyre—the boundary between the new and the old town 
—and you step back a thousand years. In no Eastern town is the 
transition so abrupt, and in few Hastern cities can you see 
oriental life in such perfection, for Damascus has its tramcars, 
and Jerusalem its railway station ; but here, in the home of the 
old pirates, you have nothing but dimly lighted lamps to break the 
spell cast over this Arabian-Nights atmosphere. The Kushbuk, 
the historic citadel of Algiers, is now occupied as a barracks, but it 
has a history dating back to the time of Barbarossa, 1516. There 
are several mosques, but only two of special interest—the Grand 
Mosque, on the quay, and the Mosque of Sidi Abder Rahman. 
Attached to the mosque is the scribe or letter writer, who is 
occupied in putting in letter form the desires of his unlettered 
clients. 
One of the most interesting sights is the arrival of a 
caravan from the desert, with fifty or more camels laden with 
merchandise of all kinds. There are no palms in Europe equal 
to those in the Jardin d’ Essai, at Algiers, and no more beauti- 
ful place could be found in which to spend a summer afternoon than 
under the shade of the trees in these beautiful gardens. 
