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In spite of the unpromising conditions, a start was made, by 
lantern light, at 2 a.m., the porters being left behind with 
instructions to wait at the hut till mid-day. 
With the object of reaching the glacier above the broken ice, 
the party made their way, as best they could, on the level along 
the steep mountain side, crossing snow slopes and rock ridges, 
which, easy enough in the day, were troublesome in the light of a 
lantern, and required caution. At last they entered on an 
undulating snowfield, between the more broken ice and the 
mountain side on the left. 
And now, in the weird gloom, feebly pierced by the flickering 
light of their lanterns, it was extremely difficult to judge the size 
and nature of the shadowy forms that surrouuded them. Here 
some dark shade showed the icy side of a great hummock ; then 
a faint line warned them that the slightly sunken snow covered a 
concealed crevasse. Winding about they advanced towards the 
entrance of the valley leading up to the Dome. The night was 
now slowly giving place to day, the valley clouds were breaking 
and whirling upwards, like steam from an immense caldron. 
The snow showed first grey and then white. Distant mountains 
seemed to climb above the clouds, and the purple hills of Italy 
were darkly outlined against the yellow light of the coming morn. 
The yellow light gradually prevailed and drove the blue darkness 
out of the upper sky, and dark red patches of colour began to 
show on the distant horizon. 
As they neared the level of the upper valley, a glowing rock, 
or a patch of crimson snow, showed where the sun was striking 
the highest ridge of Mont Blanc. But the streamers from the 
crest showed also that a gale was blowing on the ridge, so the 
party halted for breakfast, and to consider their future route and 
the weather. 
The great steep wall close above them looked blacker and 
blacker, cloud after cloud swirled down upon it, the wind 
increased, and a sudden blast of sleet and snow settled the 
question. Loads were again shouldered, hats tied on, and with 
heads down, they hurried back through the storm to the hut to 
find the porters had not yet started. These were sent down for 
more provisions, and the party prepared to spend a second night 
in the hut. Very different was the scene next morning, The 
stars were shining brightly, the sky above was clear and black, 
and the air fresh and cold. 
Following their track of the day before, they reached, at an 
earlier hour, their former breakfast place, which was at the head 
of the big snow valley, with the Dome in front, from which an 
