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apparently level ridge runs to Mont Blanc. On either hand 
were precipitous curtains and walls of rock and ice. Straight in 
front, where the glacier tumbled into the valley, were ice cliffs, 
and beyond them smoother slopes leading up to the Dome. 
Examination showed the glacier to be too dangerous. It was 
clear the party must keep to the left, pass below the ice cliffs out 
of range of falling blocks, and gain the wall on the left by a 
snow slope. ‘I'he snow was followed by ice, in which steps had 
to be cut for an hour, until the gradient eased off, and snow 
again took the place of ice. ‘They were now out of danger, and, 
on a ledge of rock, enjoyed a well-earned rest and breakfast. 
The cold was severe, and everything was hard frozen. The sun 
has not much power at five a.m., but the discomforts were of 
little account. ‘The glorious view, the knowledge that the 
expedition had, so far, been successful, and that there were many 
difficulties still to be overcome, and dangers to be avoided, which 
would require all their mountaineeriug skill, combined to furnish 
a more than ample reward. 
Breakfast over, they set off once more, ascended steadily, and 
after passing a particularly awkward corner, and a short but 
very narrow snow ridge, climbed through a hole in a rock tower, 
and emerged on the splendid West ridge of the Déme, steep, 
white, and hard frozen. To the left this crest wandered down 
in beautiful white curves of ever-increasing steepness, till it rose 
again to form a snow-white pinnacle of daring shape, the Aiguille 
de Bionnassay. 
Turning to the right, they cut steps along the ridge, gained the 
broad ridge below the Déme, and trudged gaily along towards the 
Vallot hut. The panorama was a splendid one. The green and 
purple valley of Chamonix, backed by dark snow-streaked 
mountains, lay below, and beyond them the plain of France was 
lost in a blue haze. 
~ On the other side were the great ice cliffs and the deep valley 
from which they had come, and the tremendous granite pre- 
cipices slanting down to Italy. Past the Vallot hut, which was 
in an indescribable condition, and over the steep Bosses du 
Dromadaire, they made their way, then mounted the final cone 
and at last reached the top. 
In describing shortly the descent by the ordinary route, the 
Lecturer emphasised strongly the absolute necessity of experienced 
leadership for a party, and of the observance of these precautions 
which are well known, but sometimes neglected, too often with 
fatal consequences. 
