and turning on the light (mine is an electric 

 100 c.p. lamp) the image is thrown through the 

 lens on to the board or screen on which it is pro- 

 posed to pin the sensitised paper. On the screen 

 pin a piece of white paper to focus on. having first 

 determined what size jou intend your picture to 

 be, the lantern being moved faither from the 

 screen the lai yer we wish the picture, and the ex- 

 posure also being correspondingly longer, and on 

 this subject reference should be made lo the ex- 

 cellent article or enltrgements which appear in 

 the *' British Journal Photographic Almaoack " 

 for 1H99. Focus upon the white paper, in doing 

 which a hand magnifying glass is very helpful. 

 Having completed this put the orange cap on the 

 lens and then pin a strip of sensitizfd paper for 

 testing purposes on the s^creen at such portion of 

 the image as you may think best to test. Indeed, 

 at first it may be well to use more than one testing 

 strip, giving each a different exposure. To decide 

 on the exposure of course requires experience, but 

 it is wondertul how soon one can judge the time 

 each negative will require. There are several 

 factors to be considered, namely — 



(1) The density of negative. 



(2) The quality of light used. 



(3) Size cf magnification. 



(4) The lens. 



(5) 'J'he rajtidity of the paper used 

 All these, I think, are easily understood. The 

 papers are cliiefly of two rapidities, slow and 

 extra rapid, and whether we use Welling- 

 ton or Eastman the rapidity seems about 

 the same. The factor «f the lens of course 

 depends on what diaphragm is used, it being SAfe 

 in all cases to advise using the biggest stop 

 possible. 1 personally use my ordinary recti- 

 Imer Ross lens, working at F 9, and only 

 in one case I think have I ever stopped it 

 down when using it in the lantern. Now for an 

 example ao to the time of exposure required ; say 

 we wish to enlarge a ^-plate to 12a to IU3 we shall 

 find that the lens will be 13 to 14 inches distant 

 from the screen, using the before mentioned lens 

 and 100 c p electric lamp and extra rapid paper 

 and a very t hin negative, an exposure of HO seconds 

 will probably suffice. If having exposed we 

 then dip the strip cf bromide paper into the 

 developer wh watch for the first appearance (»f the 

 print and if this comes up in about 12 seconds the 

 exposure is corr^^ct and development should be 

 complete in about one or l^ minutes, perhaps less. 

 Baving by the test ascertained the exposure re- 

 quired, pin the bromide paper on the screen and 

 give it the required exposure, being careful not to 

 shake the lantern while this is going on. In 

 many cases such as landscapes, the picture will 

 not be complete without the insertion of clouds, 

 and for this purpose it is necessary to have a 

 selection of thin cloud negatives — tbeseareused in 

 the lantern in the same way as the ordinary picture 

 negative and the exposure of the cluU'is may be 

 either bet ore or alter I he picture exposure, it is, how- 

 ever, probably best to do it before. It is obvious 

 that we must have a selection of cloud negatives 

 and that these also stionld be properly developed. 

 I have always used Ilford chromatic plates F. 32 

 Btop and a yellow screen, and very short exposure 



one-tenth sec. The books tell you to give longer, 

 but in carrying out their instructions I have not 

 succeeded. I usually develope with rodinal with 

 tepidwater, soas to obviate theshoit exposure, and 

 when the detail is out rinse and again put the plate 

 into a developer very strong in pyro and bromide 

 to i^ive contrast. I use the rodinal rather than a 

 pyro and soda solution strong in soda because the 

 latter tends to discolour a thing, not desirable in 

 cloud negatives, although, I admit, effective for 

 ordinary negatives for printing from as opposed to 

 enlarging. Having both the subject and ttie clouds, 

 although invisible on paper,it is placed in waterfor 

 some seconds to soften the fi.lm and to make it lie 

 tiat on the developing dish. Having done this 

 remove and lay it face up in the dish and pour the 

 developer over, being most careful that it fiows 

 over all parts by rocking gently, watching all the 

 time to see that there are no air bubbles, and if 

 necessary sweeping over the paper with your 

 fingers or cotton wool. I have tr'ed using a wide 

 3-inch camel-hair brush, but of the three prefer 

 using my fingers, dipping them immediately 

 afterwards in a pail of hot water I always have 

 bandy. A correctly-exposed enlargement, as I 

 have said, should begin to appear in about 12 

 seconds from the time the developer is applied, 

 and be complete in from one to oce-and-a-half 

 minutes, when it is either washed first or at once 

 transferred to the hypo bath — where it is left for 

 15 or 20 minutes and then washed for two or three 

 hours. It may be asked whether in developing 

 much can be done (as in plate making) in 

 improving a wrongly-exposed paper, such as by 

 altering the component parts of the developer or 

 applying warm breath or wool heated in hot water 

 to under-exposed parts, and to this question I 

 should say that very little is possible. I am of 

 course speaking of a case where the exposure is very 

 incorrect ; a tew seconds either side of a correct 

 one being immaterial. With regard, however, to 

 prints which are weak and have a misty or faded 

 appearance, and look as though they had not been 

 developed enough, these can be greatly improved 

 by, and are proper subjects for, the uranium 

 process, being turned into sepia, or red tones. At 

 first it is difficult to be sure of getting a sepia, but 

 I have found the following reliable : 



Uranium nitrate 5 grains. 



Potassium ferricyanide 4 grains. 



Acetic acid 2 drams. 



Water 5 ounces. 



It must be recollected that a different tone is 

 effected, not only by altering the quantities of the 

 chemicals, but also by altering the quantity of 

 water. The process is exceedingly simple, and can 

 be done in the daylight. Afterwards wash for a 

 few minutes, and then rinse in a solution 

 of ammonia sulphocyanide, 10 grains per ounce 

 water,for the purpose of removing the yelloweffect 

 from the sky, etc. Afterwards again wash for 20 

 minutes or so. Absence of hypo in this, as in all 

 other branches of photography except fixing, is 

 absolutely necessary, indeed, in enlarging.the effect 

 uf the slightest trace of hypo is fatal to the bromide 

 paper print, aod, except in cases of carelessness, 

 should never occur, it being quite unnecessary to 

 dip the fingers as well as the paper into the hypo 



