METHODS OF TRAVEL 23 



civilization, epochs before the Christian era. To travel 

 leisurely through this vast country is an education which 

 leaves an indelible impress on all fortunate enough to have 

 had the experience. The Chinese do not see time from the 

 Westerner's view-point, and for the traveller in the interior 

 parts of China the first, last, and most important thing of all 

 is to ever bear this in mind. 



The majority of travellers still ascend the river above 

 Ichang in native boats, and it will probably be a long time 

 before a regular fleet of steamers ply these dangerous waters 

 and render the native boat obsolete. The journey from Ichang 

 to Chungking and beyond has been described so often that 

 the subject is threadbare, and I have no intention of describing 

 it over again. Volumes have been written on this subject, 

 and some day perhaps a writer will arise and do full justice 

 to the theme. 



I have made the journey up and down many times, and on 

 each occasion have been more and more impressed with the 

 sublime beauty of the Gorges. The scenery in these savage 

 chasms is all and more than any writer has described it as 

 being. It must be seen to be fully understood and appreciated. 

 The more often one travels up and down this stretch of the 

 river the deeper grows one's awe and respect for the many 

 rapids, swift currents, and innumerable difficulties which im- 

 pede navigation. 



The native boats are perfectly fitted for the navigation of 

 these difficult waters ; they are the outcome of generations of 

 experience, and the balance-rudder and turret-build have been 

 used in these craft long before their adoption by Western 

 nations. The men, too, who earn their livelihood in navigating 

 these boats, understand their business thoroughly. Much has 

 been written by hasty travellers on the shortcomings and 

 incompetence of these men, that is as unwarrantable as it is un- 

 deserved. These Chinese boatmen are careful, absolutely com- 

 petent and thorough masters of their craft, and the more one 

 sees of them and their work the more one's admiration grows. 

 Oriental methods are not occidental methods, but they suc- 

 ceed just the same ! When on the boat the Westerner will do 

 well to adapt himself to Eastern methods ; any attempt to 



