METHODS OF TRAVEL 27 



and any shelter suffices for a night's halt. In wet weather, or 

 when held up through flooded torrents or what not, the absence 

 of proper accommodation is acutely felt. In the wilds of China 

 one hungers for the dak bungalows of India and Ceylon, or 

 accommodation on similar lines. 



A traveller in China should have with him an outfit, com- 

 prising bed, bedding, victuals, cooking paraphernalia, and 

 insect-powder. It sounds rather forbidding on paper, but 

 labour is cheap, and a little experience enables one to keep the 

 size of outfit within reasonable limits. The necessary coolies 

 should always be obtained through a respectable agency and 

 an agreement made in writing, stating all necessary details. 

 A head-man, called a " Fu-tou," should be given charge of 

 the coolies. 



In parts of China where foreigners are well known, it is 

 possible to dispense with the luxury of a sedan-chair, but it 

 must be remembered that a sedan-chair is an outward and 

 visible sign of respectability. It is the recognized medium of 

 travel, and, quite apart from its real use, it is a necessity, since 

 its presence ensures respect. In the out-of-the-way parts of 

 China, even though it is carried piecemeal, a chair is of greater 

 service and value to the traveller than a passport. According 

 to treaty, all foreigners travelling in China must furnish them- 

 selves with a passport, which must be shown on request. This 

 is a matter of considerable importance, and should never be 

 omitted. 



One thing more is necessary ere the caravan is fully equipped, 

 and that is a good cook. Unless the traveller speaks Chinese 

 he must have a servant able to speak broken English. A good 

 travelling servant is hard to find, but the last thing the average 

 traveller should dream of doing is to engage an interpreter. A 

 good domestic servant will fill this function in so far as it is 

 necessary. 



