CHAPTER IV 



IN QUEST OF FLOWERS 



A Journey in North-Western Hupeh 



ON 4th June 1910 I left Ichang for Chengtu, via a new 

 route through the wilds of north-west Hupeh. With 

 600 miles of overland travel ahead the caravan had 

 been fitted up with all the skill at my command, and with 

 enthusiasm to spur us on I felt that the difficulties would not 

 prove insurmountable. Nearly all the men had been associated 

 with me on former journeys of a similar nature. 



We took the lesser road by way of San-yu-tung glen for 

 Hsingshan Hsien, in consequence of the main road being 

 congested by coolies engaged in blazing a trail for the Hankow- 

 Szechuan Railway. The caravan consisted of twenty carrying- 

 coolies, several men for collecting and general work en route, 

 a chair for the Boy, and another for myself. My own start 

 was not propitious. I was riding in my chair and had scarcely 

 cleared the precincts of the foreign settlement when one of 

 the poles snapped. This occasioned an hour's delay, but 

 happening where it did new poles were secured without diffi- 

 culty. It is never easy to make an early start the first day, 

 and it is always advisable to count on a short stage. It was 

 one o'clock when we reached the mouth of the San-yu-tung 

 glen, 5 miles above Ichang, and overtook the main caravan. 

 The weather was hot, and we only did another 15 li ^ to Sha- 

 lao-che, making 35 li in all. This little hamlet consists of a 

 few scattered houses, and we availed ourselves of the largest, 

 which happened to be a wine-distillery, and the smell of stale 

 brewing was very strong. 



The journey up the San-yu-tung glen was very interesting, 



1 Ten li=three English miles. 

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