34 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA 



for travelling, since it was not too hot. Most of the journey 

 was downhill. Soon after starting in the morning we crossed 

 one or two low ridges, intercepted by narrow plateaux, and 

 about noon commenced the descent to Hsingshan Hsien. The 

 descent is precipitous in parts, but the mountain-sides are 

 mostly under cultivation. About half-way down coal is 

 mined, but the quality appears to be indifferent. Lime is 

 burnt in small quantities and paper-mills occur near Hsing- 

 shan. 



Hsingshan, the only district city in these wilds, may claim to 

 be one of the smallest and poorest Hsiens [i.e. cities of the fourth 

 class) in the whole of China. It is situated on the left bank of a 

 stream and contains scarcely a hundred houses, most of which 

 are in a ruinous state. The wall facing the river varies from 

 4 to 12 feet in height. A road, apparently the main road, runs 

 along the top of this wall. The east gate is closed by sewage ; 

 the north gate is so low that one has to bend the head when 

 passing through ! The whole town is dull and lifeless, as far as 

 business is concerned, but children are plentiful, as they are 

 everywhere else in China. The town is backed by a steep 

 mountain, up two sides of which a wall is carried : most of 

 the mountain-side enclosed within the wall is given over to 

 terraced fields. The river is broad, with a shingly bottom, and 

 the water clear and Umpid. Thick-bottomed boats ply between 

 Hsiang-t'an and Hsiang-che, a village at the head of the 

 Mitan Gorge, on the Yangtsze. No one stays in Hsingshan, 

 and we journeyed on to Hsiang-t'an. This name signifies 

 " fragrant rapid " : the waters may perhaps be sweet, but the 

 village is foul and stinking. We had some little difficulty in 

 securing lodgings, poor as they were, and an objectionable coolie 

 had to be evicted before we could settle down for the night. 



Flowers were not common during the day. We passed 

 a magnificent tree of Keteleeria Davidiana, 8o feet tall and i6 

 feet in girth. This tree shelters some graves, and was probably 

 planted long ago. In the descent we passed through orchards 

 of CratcBgus hupehensis, all in full flower. This Hawthorn is 

 one of several kinds cultivated in China for their edible fruit. 

 The interesting TonicelUa angulata occurs sparingly, and here 

 and there large plants of Mucuna sempervirens cover large 



