FOREST AND CRAG 59 



did eventually obtain was at famine prices and the grumbling 

 was loud on all sides. 



The following morning we descended by a moderately easy 

 path to a torrent and then commenced a heart-breaking 

 ascent of some 2600 feet. It was excessively hot and I do not 

 remember perspiring so much before. A rugged, precipitous, 

 sparsely populated country is this, and I never wish to see it 

 again. Limestone regions are magnificent from the scenic 

 point of view, but for travelling over they are fierce and 

 arduous beyond words ! Our destination was Hsao-pingtsze 

 and no one knew the distance. Inquiries made as often as 

 possible always elicited the same reply : " Seven or 8 li from 

 Peh-kuo-yiien, 7 or 8 li to Hsao-pingtsze." Late in the after- 

 noon the distance to go increased to 30 li and did not shorten 

 until we suddenly sighted the two huts which form the hamlet 

 of Hsao-pingtsze ! 



The ascent was largely under cultivation, but the final 

 stage was through jungle. Lonicera fragophylla is common 

 and was in full flower, but we saw no good plants. A bush 

 of Schizophragma integri folium, one mass of the purest white, 

 on the cliffs, was conspicuous from afar. But the flora 

 generally is very ordinary, with Rhododendron discolor and 

 R. Mariesii common here and there. On reaching the top of 

 the cliffs we entered a cultivated slope where Walnut and 

 Varnish trees abound. The district is called Ta-ping-shan 

 and consists of several scattered farmhouses surrounded by 

 fields of maize, pulse, barley, and Irish potato. At one of 

 these farmhouses my followers managed to secure a good meal 

 and high spirits prevailed in consequence. 



On leaving this place we continued to ascend by an easy 

 path skirting rolling downs. A few scattered houses occur 

 for a couple of miles but were mostly deserted, and we soon 

 left all signs of cultivation and habitation behind us. The 

 downs are treeless and clad mostly with grass with scattered 

 bushes of Willow, Barberry and Spirsea. The depressions 

 between the hills were masses of blue Forget-me-not. The 

 whole region would make excellent grazing ground for cattle. 

 Crossing over at 7950 feet altitude, we descended by an easy 

 road for a mile or so and passed a couple of huts surrounded 



