8o A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA 



Here and there the hilltops are crowned by old forts built 

 of dressed stone. These relics (Chaitzu) of turbulent times 

 abound all over the salt districts and more wealthy regions 

 of eastern Szechuan. Limekilns, small clay-covered affairs, 

 were common en route, and many of the rice fields had been 

 dressed with slaked lime. 



Wen-tang-ching is a town of considerable size, by far the 

 largest place we had met with since leaving Ichang. It is 

 built on steep slopes bounding the two sides of a clear-water 

 stream, and backed by high limestone cliffs. On the south- 

 west side these cliffs are stark and sun-baked. Large quan- 

 tities of salt are produced here. The brine pits are situated on 

 the foreshore and immediate neighbourhood of the stream. The 

 supply depends on the state of the river, the lower the water the 

 more brine is obtainable. During summer floods the industry 

 is suspended. The salt is white, powdery, of moderate quality, 

 valued at twenty-six cash per i6-ounce catty. It is dis- 

 tributed throughout the north and west of the Hsien, but 

 cannot enter the city of Kai Hsien itself. Dust-coal is mined 

 in the neighbourhood and used for evaporating the brine. 



The town consists of about a thousand houses and boasts 

 several temples and large guild-halls, that belonging to the 

 Shensi guild being very prominent on account of its large size 

 and ornate architecture. Two small pagodas protect the luck of 

 the place, and many Chaitzu crown the surrounding hills. The 

 inhabitants are not prepossessing, being unusually dirty and 

 over-curious. Some were not over-civil, and there was a slight 

 scuffle between my men and some rowdies. Our inn was dark, 

 suffocatingly hot, and most undesirable in every way. It was 

 the best we could find, and served its purpose, uncomfortable 

 as it was. Behind the inn is a huge cave with vast stalactites 

 and a cool breeze blowing through it. This is the curiosity of 

 the town, and was pointed out with a great show of pride. 



All along the route from Taning Hsien there has been much 

 argument over the price of food-stuffs. The natives constantly 

 putting up the price on my men, this led to heated words, but 

 generally ended in the men getting a fair price. Many of 

 them had travelled too far^not to know " the ropes." 



Wen-tang-ching is only 750 feet altitude, and with the 



