88 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA 



was easy, leading through and among low hilltops and shallow 

 valleys intercepted by hills 300 to 500 feet high. Cypress and 

 Pine are abundant, so also are Pistacia and Alhizzia lebbek, 

 both making large umbrageous trees. Vitex Negundo is the 

 commonest shrub, sometimes attaining to the dignity of a small 

 tree : it was everywhere covered with masses of lavender-purple 

 flowers. 



The country is highly cultivated. Rice predominates, with 

 various kinds of beans (especially Lutou, i.e. green beans) next 

 in importance — both crops evidently follow after wheat. We 

 passed odd patches of cotton and very many Plum trees. 

 The region is well populated, bypaths abound, and it was 

 no easy matter for us to keep to the right road. At one point 

 the road bifurcates, one branch leading to Shuang-ho ch'ang, 

 the other to Shuang-miao ch'ang, our proposed halting-place 

 for the night. The names of these two villages, when spoken 

 rapidly, sound much alike, even to Chinese ears. My men got 

 somewhat confused, and for a time there was danger of the 

 caravan following two divergent routes. 



We passed through the market village of Wang-chia 

 ch'ang (ch'ang signifies market village), a curious little place, 

 dominated by a temple in the middle, the roofs of the houses 

 uniting to form a central covered way, beneath which the road 

 passes through the village. 



Shuang-miao ch'ang was our intended destination for the 

 day, but being market day the village was filled to overflowing. 

 A hundred or more people followed us into an inn, and in 

 a little while there was hardly room to breathe. Many were 

 obviously under the influence of wine. It was too hot to 

 tolerate such overcrowding curiosity, so we pushed on a 

 further 5 li, where we happened on a decent farmhouse, which 

 we commandeered. The owner being away, his wife was at 

 first sorely afraid, but in a couple of hours her confidence was 

 gained and all was well. The men had difficulty in obtaining 

 food and lodging. The majority went back to the village, 

 but none complained : they all realized the impossibility of 

 my remaining the night in such a crowded place. 



Our quarters were new and shaded by a grove of Bamboo 

 and C5rpress, but mosquitoes were multitudinous, rendering 



