98 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA 



one. It was not a success. A mob rushed our inn and bedlam 

 reigned for a couple of hours. Eventually it thinned down, 

 but many of the more insistent and curious remained until 

 bedtime. There was much noise, but the crowd was friendly 

 enough; nevertheless, I was glad it proved to be the last 

 market village of its kind we encountered before reaching 

 Chengtu. 



Tu-men-pu or ch'ang, alt. 1950 feet, 70 li from Fu-ling 

 ch'ang, is a large and prosperous village boasting much trade 

 on market-days. Something of everything in the way of native 

 produce was on sale, and the narrow street was thronged to 

 overflowing. Five li before reaching this place our road con- 

 verged with one leading to Pa Chou city by way of Yilung 

 Hsien. 



I had a poor night's sleep in consequence of loud talking 

 being carried on far into the early hours, a woman (as usual) 

 being the principal offender. This was an emphatic reminder 

 of the hubbub of the crowd which besieged us on arrival, and 

 I was really glad to quit Tu-men-pu. A few li beyond this 

 village we branched off from the main road, which goes to 

 Nanpu Hsien. Much salt comes from this township, and 

 during the last two or three days we had met many carriers 

 laden with this commodity. 



Forty li beyond Tu-men-pu we passed the poor village of 

 Shui-kuan-ying, protected by dilapidated gates which denote 

 its former military character. In years gone by it was a 

 barrier of some considerable importance. Twenty li farther 

 on we reached the village of Chin-ya ch'ang, alt. 2150 feet, 

 which differs from all we had met with heretofore in having a 

 broad main street fully exposed to the heavens. To our great 

 joy market was not in progress. We found lodgings in a new 

 and quiet inn, which proved a welcome change ; the people, 

 too, were courteous and much less inquisitive. The day was 

 exceptionally hot, and all were glad to reach the end of the 

 allotted stage of 60 li. Twelve li before reaching Chin-ya 

 ch'ang we struck a main road leading from Nanpu Hsien, 

 and following it entered the village through an isolated ornate 

 gateway. Beyond the village is a bluff of grey sandstone 

 studded with square-mouthed caves. These caves are crude 



