100 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA 



of considerable size, highly cultivated with rice and sorghum, 

 with here and there a little abutilon hemp. At the head of 

 this fiat, some lo li from the river, we crossed over some 

 levelled hillocks into a basin — evidently an old lake bed — 

 surrounded by bare mountains 200 to 500 feet high. This 

 depression was a lake of luxuriant padi (rice), with houses here 

 and there, nestling in clumps of trees. From this basin we 

 passed through a low, narrow gap between the hills, and came 

 abruptly to the Paoning River a little below the city itself. We 

 were ferried across and found lodgings in a large and fairly com- 

 fortable inn. The flora of the day's journey was without special 

 interest. Cypress being the only kind of tree really common. 

 But shading some graves, opposite Ho-che kuan, occurs the 

 largest specimen of the " Pride of India" [Melia Azedarach) I 

 have met with. This tree is 70 feet tall, and 10 feet in girth. 



Paoning Fu is a city of past rather than of present great- 

 ness. It is still a most important administrative centre, but its 

 real interest lies in its great historic past. From the early days 

 of Chinese conquest it has been a strategical point of vast 

 importance. During the Ming dynasty (a.d. 1368-1644) a 

 generalissimo of forces had a palace here. The terrible rebel, 

 Chang Hien-tsung (a.d. 1630-46 circa), ravaged the country 

 roundabout, but spared the city itself. The result is that 

 many of the official residences and temples date back to 

 ancient times. 



Formerly Paoning was the centre of a lucrative and thriving 

 silk industry, but this has steadily declined during the last 

 twenty years, and to-day it is a mere figment in comparison. 

 Attempts are now being made by the officials to rejuvenate 

 and foster this industry, which apparently failed more through 

 lack of business ability and tenacit}/ than anything else. On 

 the neighbouring hills I was told " wild silk " is produced, the 

 " worms " feeding on the leaves of a scrub Oak, " Ching-kang " 

 [Quercus serrata) . 



The city occupies an extensive alluvial fiat on the left bank 

 of the river within an amphitheatre of low, bare, often pyra- 

 midal, hills, 300 to 600 feet high. Viewed from the opposite 

 bank there are no outstanding architectural features visible, 

 save a pavilion, which is practically the only building breaking 



