THE CHENGTU PLAIN 113 



a Consulate-General there, but on the plea that the city is 

 not an " open port," the Chinese have successfully resisted 

 the purchase of land on which to erect suitable houses and 

 offices for the staffs representing these Powers. The result is 

 that these officers are housed in dilapidated Chinese quarters, 

 insanitary, dangerous to health, and unbecoming the dignity 

 of the Powers they represent. It is nothing short of a scandal 

 to thrust men into such abominable quarters. Chengtu Fu is 

 far removed from London, Paris, and Berlin, also from Peking, 

 but is it fitting to make backwoodsmen of these repre- 

 sentatives ? Missionaries of every denomination are firmly 

 entrenched at Chengtu, and can acquire all the property 

 their funds admit of either for residences, hospitals, schools, 

 or churches. 



The city is surrounded by a magnificent wall, some 9 miles 

 in circumference, with eight bastions, pierced by four fine gates. 

 This wall is 66 feet broad at base, 35 feet high, and 40 feet broad 

 at top, along which runs a crenulated balustrade. It is faced 

 and paved with hard brick (the walls of all the other cities on 

 the plain are of sandstone), and is kept in thorough repair. 

 During Manchu times a Tartar garrison was stationed here, 

 a large area on the south-west side of the city being walled off 

 to form a Manchu city. Within the city walls are many fine 

 residences, private and official, temples, a large parade ground, 

 etc. The city is clean and orderly, with an efficient police. To 

 wander through the streets noting the varied industries carried 

 on is a liberal education in Chinese ways of doing things. 

 The wares on sale are of infinite variety, and are themselves 

 indicative of the wealth which is everywhere apparent. The 

 shop-signs, lacquered and gilded, hang vertically downwards, 

 and proclaim in their large artistic characters the titles of the 

 shops and the wares on sale. The city is full of officials, both 

 in and out of office, who move about the streets in sedan-chairs 

 carried at a great speed. The chairs are peculiar in having 

 the long poles curved, with the body of the chair resting on 

 top of the curve. When carried, such a chair is well above 

 the heads of the crowd. The streets are always crowded 

 with pedestrians, chairs, and wheel-barrows. Different trades 

 occupy their own particular quarter. Certain streets are 



VOL. I. — 8 



