NORTH-WESTERN SZECHUAN 117 



situated on the left bank of a stream backed by bare mountains 

 which rear themselves some 2000 feet above the level of the 

 river. Two streams uniting here form a river navigable during 

 high-water season to Mien Chou, a city on the Fou Ho — the 

 western branch of the Kialing River system. An Hsien is a 

 Httle beyond the north-western limits of the Chengtu Plain, and 

 its river gives it direct communication with Chungking, during 

 the summer at least. 



Leaving by the north gate, we took a road that ascends 

 the main branch of the river which is kept from flooding the 

 city by a well-made low bund of stone slabs, firmly cemented 

 together. After traversing a small cultivated valley we plunged 

 into a rocky defile and crossed the river by an iron suspension 

 bridge, no yards long. This bridge is old and in poor repair, 

 and it swayed considerably as we walked singly across. A few 

 miles farther on we recrossed the stream by a similar bridge, 

 and reached Lei-ku-ping, our destination for the day, at 

 6 p.m. A certain amount of rice is cultivated hereabouts, 

 but maize is the staple crop. As an under-crop to maize, 

 Amor pho phallus konjac (" Mo-yu ") is commonly cultivated, 

 the tubers being used as food after their acrid properties have 

 been removed by washing in water. We met considerable 

 traffic, mostly coolies laden with sheep-skins and medicines 

 from Sungpan, which they put on boats at An Hsien for con- 

 veyance to Chungking ; much potash (lye) in small tubs, 

 and oil-cakes consisting of the residue of Chinese rape-seed 

 after the oil is expressed. Coal of very poor quality, mostly 

 dust, is obtained in the surrounding mountains, and we met 

 scores of mules, ponies, and coolies engaged in transporting it. 



Lei-ku-ping, alt. 2750 feet, is a large market village, pos- 

 sessing one principal street with gates at each end, which are 

 closed after sunset. The centre of a large and important 

 industry in tea, Lei-ku-ping largely supplies Sungpan Ting 

 and the country beyond. The tea is grown in the surrounding 

 districts and brought to the village for sale. Later we shall 

 have more to say concerning this industry. 



It rained heavily during the early hours of the morning, and 

 though it was fair when we set out, showers fell the whole fore- 

 noon. On leaving Lei-ku-ping we ascended a few hundred 



