NORTH-WESTERN SZECHUAN 121 



made of a single thick cable of plaited bamboo culms — sure 

 signs of difficult borderland country. Near Shihch'uan Hsien 

 we passed a bamboo suspension bridge, similar to the one 

 already described ; at Kai-ping-tsen there is another such 

 bridge. There was a fair amount of traffic on the road. Potash 

 salts (lye), shingles, and oil-cake were the principal loads 

 encountered, all being carried on men's backs, the first-named 

 being the most common. 



Kai-ping-tsen, alt. 3200 feet, is a small village of about 

 fifty houses, situated on the left bank of a stream some 50 li 

 north of Shihch'uan Hsien. A new, empty house afforded us 

 comfortable lodgings ; the people were courteous, and made 

 our brief stay with them very pleasant. A remarkably fine 

 headstone, recently erected over the tomb of a much-respected 

 widow, was the chief thing of interest in the village. 



On leaving Kai-ping-tsen we continued to ascend the left 

 bank of the stream through country similar to that of the 

 previous day, for 30 li to the market village of Hsao-pa-ti. 

 This village, all things considered, is of considerable size (about 

 one hundred houses) , with many farmhouses scattered around. 

 The mountains are less rugged and steep, and are given over to 

 the cultivation of maize. The houses are low, built of mud 

 shales and roofed with slabs of slate. Market was in progress ; 

 food-stuffs, fuel, and potash salts being the principal goods on 

 sale. A bamboo suspension bridge spans the river and a road 

 leads across country, ultimately joining with the main road 

 between Shihch'uan Hsien and Mao Chou. On leaving Hsao- 

 pa-ti the road deserts the river and ascends through rhaize 

 fields over a rather low ridge. It then descends to a small 

 tributary, after crossing which a steep climb of 1000 feet leads 

 to the summit of another ridge. From this point we sighted 

 the main stream again, flowing through a smiling valley, at the 

 head of which nestles the village of Pien-kou, which was our 

 destination for the day. This village proved a good 20 li from 

 the ridge, though it looked close at hand. The road led through 

 fields of maize to the valley, and finally across the river by an 

 old, very shaky bamboo suspension bridge, which swayed 

 tremendously and was really unsafe. 



Pien-kou (Yiian-kou of the maps), alt. 3800 feet, is a market 



