NORTH-WESTERN SZECHUAN 125 



lodgings in a large and good house. Rain commenced shortly 

 before 11 a.m., and continued the rest of the day. Our 

 perspective was limited to a few hundred feet ; now and again 

 a strong gust of wind would scatter the mists, admitting 

 momentary glimpses of cliffs and inaccessible peaks clothed 

 with jungle and with occasional Conifer trees, but such 

 views were rare. 



The hamlet of Hsao-kou is very scattered, and we passed 

 two or three more houses soon after leaving our lodgings. 

 But after about 3 li houses and cultivation vanished, as did 

 also the Buddleia and Hydrangea previously so abundant. 

 The ascent, at first gradual, soon becomes precipitous, through 

 a jungle growth of shrubs and coarse herbs. The latter with 

 the thin brushwood is cut periodically and burnt. The ashes 

 so obtained are placed in wooden vats fitted with sieve bottoms, 

 boiling water is poured over them, and the liquid drains into 

 tubs, where it is evaporated and salts of potash (lye) left as a 

 residue. This product is packed in flasks and carried to 

 market towns for sale. We passed several rude huts where 

 men were engaged in this occupation. The road ascends a 

 small torrent and is nowhere easy. By throwing logs across 

 the stream and boggy places, lumber-men have succeeded in 

 making some sort of a path. But crossing these wet, slippery 

 logs was difficult. At one such crossing I slipped, but by 

 jumping into the rock-strewn torrent somehow managed to 

 avoid a nasty accident. Near the summit, and for some 

 distance down the Lungan side of the pass, are split pieces 

 of wood, arranged to form a long flight of shallow steps that 

 assist the roadway materially. The descent after a few hundred 

 feet becomes gradual, leading through open, park-like slopes, 

 quite unlike anything I have encountered elsewhere in China. 

 Now largely denuded of trees these glades are covered with 

 grass, and horses, goats, and pigs are raised here in some 

 quantity. 



Formerly this range of mountains must have been covered 

 with conifers, but the lumber-man's hands have been heavily 

 laid on these forests. We passed none but small, decrepit 

 specimens of no value. Hemlock, Spruce, and Silver Fir are 

 all represented. The outstanding featui'e of the march was 



