146 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA 



origin. They are not nomads, but essentially a pastoral and 

 agricultural people. In dress, speech, and facial character- 

 istics they agree closely with the inhabitants of anterior 

 Thibet. Their houses are similarly constructed, and Lamaism 

 dominates their lives. As a people the Sifan are divided 

 into several tribal clans : those around Sungpan style them- 

 selves Murookai ; those a little to the south-west of this town 

 LappS,. Immediately around Sungpan the Chinese language 

 is generally understood, but away from the town colloquial 

 Thibetan only is spoken, each hamlet having an interpreter 

 to conduct all affairs with the Chinese. These people are ruled 

 by head-men who are held directly responsible for the proper 

 maintenance of law and order. The Chinese policy is one of 

 non-interference in so far as it is consistent with the status 

 of China as the paramount power. 



The Sifan men as seen in the streets of Sungpan and 

 the immediate neighbourhood are swarthy in appearance and 

 average 5 feet 6 inches in height or rather more ; in walking 

 they have a clumsy gait and are generally awkward and sullen 

 when approached. Their dress is a sort of " cover-all " made 

 of grey or claret-coloured serge, confined around the waist 

 by a girdle ; the right shoulder is generally uncovered. This 

 garment is often edged with fur ; sometimes it is made entirely 

 of sheep-skins, with the wool worn inside. Short trousers and 

 high felt boots cover the legs and feet, though in the streets 

 they frequently go barefooted. The head-gear is either a low, 

 stone-coloured, soft felt hat, with turned-up brim bordered 

 with black, or a high, cone-shaped, light grey felt hat edged 

 with white sheep-skin. Occasionally those living near Chinese 

 settlements affect a dirty turban. The hair is worn long and 

 gathered up inside the hat. The Lamas have their heads 

 close-cropped or shaven, and when seen in the streets are 

 usually hatless. In ceremonial dress they wear a sort of 

 cocked hat made of grey serge covered with a mass of fluffy 

 yellowish woollen stuff. Muleteers and men generally, when 

 travelling, go armed with swords, knives, and long guns, the 

 latter fitted with a fuse and a fork to rest the barrel on when 

 taking aim. All wear charm-boxes on their chests, and carry 

 a flint-box and tinder suspended from their girdle ; somewhere 



