178 A NATURALIST IN WESTERN CHINA 



the clouds lifted we saw nothing but steep mountain-sides, 

 beetling crags or cliffs, bare here and there but mostly clothed 

 with mixed vegetation, giving place ultimately to forests 

 of Conifers. The road is vile beyond the power of language 

 to describe. In several places poles have been fixed hori- 

 zontally into holes made in the face of the cliffs and half-rotten 

 planks laid on these to form a roadway. Such bridges as 

 exist are of logs, often rotten, and were always difficult to 

 cross. The river is simply a roaring torrent, cascading over 

 huge boulders and madly endeavouring to escape to less 

 savage regions. At one point it receives a torrent, which, 

 judging from the colour and temperature of the waters, evi- 

 dently comes down from eternal snows. 



During the day we passed a few miserable hovels, but 

 there is no room for cultivation, and the people are wretchedly 

 poor. We stayed for the night at Yii-yii-tien, alt. 8800 feet, 

 42 li from Ta-ngai-tung, where there are two poor hostels. 

 These useful if squalid structures are all alike on this route, 

 being one-storied, constructed of wood, and roofed with shingles 

 held down by stones. A portion is sectioned off as private 

 quarters for the family in charge, and near by the kitchen is 

 located. A series of bunks is built around all sides of the 

 place, the central part being occupied by benches for the 

 accommodation of loads. Travellers furnish their own food- 

 supplies, since nothing is obtainable at the hostel except, 

 perhaps, some green vegetables in minute quantities. Shelter 

 for the night and a fire to cook food and dry clothing are all 

 these places afford. But the foreign traveller enjoys a welcome 

 quietude and freedom from curious crowds. A sound night's 

 sleep rewards the labours of the day, and he awakens refreshed, 

 perfectly fit, and all eager to drink in more of the wondrous 

 scenery, the charm of woodland, crag, and stream. 



At Teng-sheng-t'ang, 8 li beyond Yii-yii-tien, the ravine 

 widens out into a shallow valley, and the road boldly ascends 

 the grassy, scrub-clad mountains to the left of the stream. 

 Hereabouts Barberries in great variety luxuriate. After a 

 severe ascent we crossed over a shoulder, and for the rest of 

 the day skirted the side of a grassy ridge carpeted with 

 brilliantly coloured alpine flowers. 



